Infrared Photography Buzz

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Michael Keesling

2010-08-08T14:59:00.004-06:00

Hello loyal IR Buzz Readers, it has been quite some time since anyone contacted me to be Featured here on the Buzz. Recently I heard from Michael Keesling asking to join the ranks here. As you will learn from reading Michaels Bio., He has a wide range of experiences in photography, as well as offering Canon A480 P&S IR converted cameras for sale on his web site. Be sure to take a good look around on the web site as it contains a lot of good information about Infrared Photography. Opticsgeek Lets give Michael a warm welcome and many thanks for allowing us to see his wonderful IR work.

Bio: My first experiences with photography actually started out with holography. Back in 1979, I set up a holography lab in my bedroom at my parents house, and also transitioned into taking and processing B&W images as well. Since then, I have spent most of my life working in the entertainment business, building devices for cinematographers to make compelling images in-camera. In 2002 I received and Emmy for my work, and having achieved that goal, have turned my attention to taking more photos, and relaxing more. I Have a Nikon D40 and a Nikon D300 but I don't like carrying around that much weight in the field. I wanted to get into infrared, so I converted a Canon A480 to IR, and started taking images. I started getting requests from friends to make them cameras, and I finally decided to start selling them online. My goal is to produce full featured, quality IR cameras at a reasonable cost.

Here are a few of my favorite IR Photos.

My IR Gallery Of Customers Photos

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Please let Michael know how much you enjoy his IR Photography!

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Peter Talke

2010-01-10T20:46:00.006-06:00

Hello IR Shooters. I am very pleased to present talented IR Photographer, Peter Talke from New Jersey , and the chance to view his extensive IR work. Peter travels the world and brings back stunning IR Photography from the places that he is so fortunate to be able to visit. Peter is also beginning to use HDR with his IR work. Be sure to check out some of his High Definition images in his Gallery. HDR is a photography technique that obviously has a lot of potential for IR images. You will probably want to give it a try after seeing Peter's work. Here on The Buzz, Peter offers links to his fantastic IR Photography. Let us give a warm IR Buzz welcome to Peter Talke!

Bio: My name is Peter Talke I was born in Central New Jersey. Photography has been a favorite of mine for many years. I have always had a camera ready to take photos at family functions or with friends. As soon as the digital camera age started in 2000, I began to take more landscape shots and enjoyed this style very much.   Then I purchased a Nikon D70S and this began my love for digital photography. I added lenses to my collection and moved up to a Nikon D300 a year or so later and my D70S went into the drawer for safe keeping.

For my job I am lucky enough to travel the world. I get a chance to see many wonderful places and take photos in my free time.   I then decided to start Talke Photography and a travel photo blog called Places 2 Explore to share my stories and pictures to my readers. I wanted to post 6 days a week (Sundays off) and everyday I get excited to post a new photo. I shoot in various styles (standard, HDR and IR) My blog is now one of the fastest growing travel photo blogs in the world!! Since 2009 I have now been published in magazines, books and advertisements. Recently I began to supply some of my photographs to Getty Images.

During my continual learning process I purchased books on varied subjects. One was Digital Infrared Pro Secrets (by David Busch). I witnessed great photographs in IR. I immediately went out and purchased a Hoya R72 filter. The learning process was slow. I didn't like the fact I could not see my photo in the viewfinder after taking a picture. My results were just ok. I bumped into a web site online by a company called LifePixel. I read that they could take an old camera and convert it to IR. It was a bit expensive ($400), so I saved and waited. Then early 2009 I sent my old Nikon D70S (was just collecting dust) in for conversion. 2-3 weeks later I was shooting IR!   A learning curve was needed and in about 1 month, my IR photos were taking shape. I enjoyed that my converted camera would show me the pics in the viewfinder and I could now use interchangeable lenses for any IR shot I wanted!

Processing IR is extremely fun. I could write a tutorial but there are so many ways to process an IR image. You can make it colorful or black & white. The fun of IR photography is that it is up to your interpretation. Some of my processed IR shots were made by having fun and fooling around in Photoshop!

Now whenever I travel I always bring 2 cameras. My standard and my converted IR camera. Great IR shots are everywhere. I try to look for trees, blue sky with some clouds, grass, lakes (with reflections if possible) - these are some items that make a solid IR shot. Light levels are also important.   Shoot IR when the sun is at its brightest and it will make your subjects pop (early morning or late afternoon)! But with IR you do not always have to shoot during the day. Night shots are possible as well! Even recently as my enjoyment with shooting HDR has grown, I have begun shooting IR-HDR's! Shooting in IR is fun...so just go out and shoot anything you like! Options are endless in IR!

As I always say...when your are about to press down the shutter...don't just take a picture, make a picture!

Some favorites of my own IR images:

Link to My IR Gallery

Infrared Photos

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Please let Peter know how much you enjoy his stunning IR Photography!

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Francisco

2009-11-29T11:58:00.006-06:00

Greetings IR Shooters. Once again, it's been quite some time since anyone has contacted me to have their work Showcased on the IR Buzz. I don't think that it says anything about a general lack of interest in IR Photography, but rather reflects how busy and diverse our lives are these days. In any case, I am very pleased that talented IR Photographer, Francisco Jose Marin Fatuarte sent me an email offering to let us all view his extensive IR work. Francisco lives in Sevilla, Spain, and it is very apparent that he has some first-rate IR locations to choose from. Francisco has developed and specializes in Panoramic Infrared Photography. Let us give a warm welcome to Francisco to The IR Buzz!

Bio: It is always difficult to write about yourself and especially if you are using a foreign language. You are supposed to give personal data and details of your photographic techniques.

But that information is probably boring for most readers. I prefer to talk about my experience and my personal view of life.

I was born in Sevilla (Spain), where my home has always been; although I love traveling I believe my homeland is second to none. My character is away from being like a standard Andalusian. I like feast and sleeping siesta but keep my feelings deep inside even with my close friends. Since I became my own boss three years ago, my life is involved in a more creative and artistic world, leaving a stressful engineering job behind.

From my first pencil drawings and oil painting when I was a teenager, the attraction for artistic expression has always pushed me in the same direction. I started in photography as many others with an old manual reflex camera (in this case it was a Fujica), and soon started processing my own films and prints. My first enlarger was made of balsa wood and black card box, which didn’t last very long, but helped me to obtain enough self-confidence to start many other projects.

I am reaching a half of a century in less than a couple of years and have plenty of experience in photography with an extensive collection of cameras and other photo related pieces of equipment. Panoramics, pinhole, fish-eye lenses, cross processing, and many other techniques are behind my fondness for artistic expression. I have always being amazed by Surrealism, and even though photography is intended for recording the "real" world I try to use it for extreme deformation and abnormal appearance.

The beginning of my IR experience was in 1999 using a Kodak 1.5 MPX camera but I soon discovered that tripod, long exposure, and soft images were not the way to go for me. Some time later I discovered HIE film and Infradol developer allowing me to use my panoramic cameras hand-held. I always have my equipment ready for a new infrared experience since then.

Some favorites of my own IR images:

Francisco's Images can be view at his Photo Galleries

IR Gallery with Zoomify

Seville Holy Week

Gallery of IR Panoramas

Gallery - Summer of 2007

Panoramics in WPS

Panoramics in PI

Read more about Francisco

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Please let Francisco know how much you enjoy and appreciate his fantastic IR Photography!

-=- Jerry -=-

Book Review: Digital Infrared Photography - Photo Workshop

2009-08-16T13:27:00.003-06:00

Here's something new and different for the Buzz. I found a book dedicated to IR Photography, and decided to do a Book Review on it. The book is titled Digital Infrared Photography - Photo Workshop - develop your digital photography talent, and is authored by Deborah Sandidge. One thing I particularly like about this book is the way Deborah continuously urges the reader to develop good photographic skills while learning to photograph in Infrared. "Seeing" the photo, being creative, and scene composition are equally important in all photography, not just in conventional color photography. Talent needs to be encouraged and cultivated to produce good IR images. More about the book later, but first lets meet the author.

Bio: Deborah Sandidge. Photography has been part of award-winning professional photographer, author, and instructor, Deborah Sandidge's life since she picked up her first camera. It has evolved into her passion. Deborah is the author of Digital Infrared Photography PhotoWorkshop, Wiley Publishing. She is an instructor at BetterPhoto.com, sharing her knowledge and enthusiasm with infrared photographers in online classes. She is the cofounder and Creative Director of the League of Creative Infrared Photographers (www.irleague.com), which was established to promote the excitement, and creativity of infrared photography.

Deborah’s favorite photography subjects include Florida’s birds and wildlife, as well as its landscapes. Her travels have not been limited to Florida’s fascinating beauty; they have taken her from border to border of America and beyond to yield photography that stretches the imagination. She has had the joy and privilege of photographing areas ranging from Namibia, Africa, with its stunning dunes, primitive tribal villages, beautiful people, and sweeping coastlines, to the cities and towns of Switzerland, Germany, and France with their rich history, majestic mountains, tiny churches, soaring cathedrals, and captivating night scenes. Recently, Deborah traveled to Cuba, a photographer’s dream location.

Deborah’s passion is not only capturing images of people, places, and things with her digital cameras, but also in the enhancing the creative work she does in the digital darkroom.

Deborah's Web Site

In this Book, Deborah really covers all of the bases, giving anyone just starting a good foundation in photography as well as the nuts and bolts of Infrared Photography. I think you can get an idea of what to expect from the following list of book chapters.

Chapter 1: What Exactly Is IR Light. An easy to understand discussion on the properties of light and where IR lies in the spectrum. Also the use of IR Filters, and IR-converted Cameras.

Chapter 2: Visualizing and Capturing IR Images. RAW and JPG, Setting White Balance, Exposure, Using Flash, and many more relevant topics.

Chapter 3: Essentials of IR Composition. Composition elements related to IR results, Lens Choice, and Personal IR Style.

Chapter 4: Capturing Specific Subjects. Architecture. Landscapes, People, and other subjects.

Chapter 5: Special Effects for Creative In-Camera Images. Long Exposures, Reflections, Textures, Zooming, Overlays, Filters, and Painting with Light.

Chapter 6: Planning Ahead for High Dynamic Range and Photomerge. HDR is a good tool for creative IR images. Software, Shooting for HDR, Post Processing, and even Panoramas.

Chapter 7: Processing IR Images in Photoshop. Always a subject that generates many questions. Many good Post Processing techniques explained in detail.

Chapter 8: Working Creatively in Photoshop. Ideas for using the power of Photoshop to take your IR images in new and tasteful directions.

Chapter 9: Transform Color to IR Effect in Photoshop. Not always appreciated fully by the IR purist, but a number of ways are explained if you want to know how to do it.

Chapter 10: Be Inspired. Deborah wisely includes the work of nine well known and respected IR Photographers to provide creative inspiration.

Appendix: A:

Glossary - A comprehensive list of terms encountered by the IR Photographer.

Resources - An equally comprehensive listing of Resources of interest to the IR Photographer, including contact information and URL Links. Included are:

IR Filters
Camera Conversion Companies
Image Editing Software
Noise Reduction Software
HDR Software and Plug-ins
Photoshop Plug-ins
Other Assessories
Photographers
Magazines
Online Communities
Events

Summary: This book is profusely illustrated, with many excellent images. Each image is annotated to provide an example or an explaination of the subject being discussed. At the end of chapters, an Assignment challenge is given to encourage hands-on experience using the knowledge imparted in the chapter. An online link is provided to share your own newly learned results. The book does an admirable job of informing any photographer just getting started in IR, as well as providing very good topical information to those with greater levels of IR Photography experience.

And Finally, the book is available for purchase on Amazon.com

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Ronald Suello

2009-04-25T09:58:00.001-06:00

Hello again IR Shooters. It's been quite awhile since I've had anyone contact me to have their work Showcased on the IR Buzz. I'm very pleased that talented IR Photographer, Ronald Suello sent me an email offering to let us all see his fine IR work. Ronnie lives in Cebu, Philippines, and it is very apparent that he has some first-rate IR scenes to choose from. He does a very good job of capturing these scenes from his world in Infrared. Ronnie, (as he will tell you in his Bio.,) uses two Nikon cameras (un-modded) for his IR work. Welcome to the IR Buzz Ronald Suello!

Bio: I live here in Cebu, Philippines and I work in the automotive electronics industry. I'm married and our first child will be coming very soon this summer. I started messing around with photography since 1990 using my father's camera, but because of film processing inconveniences, I forgot all about it. Also, it didn't help that my first film camera was stolen back in 1998. In 2002, I bought my first digital camera, a 2-megapixel FujiFilm 2600Z. Since then, shooting never stops, especially landscapes and events.

When digital SLRs became affordable, I got myself a Nikon D40 back in 2006. Looking at online galleries, I noticed that images from infrared photography are very magnetic and unique. Images that are truly unseen by the naked eye. I fell in love with it! So in summer of 2007, I started shooting landscapes in infrared and never looked back since then.

Tips: Any place is good for infrared photography as long as it has plenty of sunshine. Here in Cebu, the rural countryside offers lots of interesting subjects. Bits of cloud are desirable to avoid negative space in the skies, and I always keep an eye on old trees, bodies of water, interesting structures, and shadow direction. In the field, pre-visualization is very important - you may find a good subject or interesting composition but once the image is post-processed, you may be disappointed by the effects of the previously unseen infrared reflections. Sometimes, these reflections can be overwhelming and thus ruin your image. So "chimping" (reviewing your shots on the LCD as you take them) is encouraged in this type of photography. Don't forget the histogram. It can be your best friend.

Infrared Equipment and Post-Processing Work Flow: Most of my IR images were made using Hoya R72 IR filters with the Nikkor 18-55 kit lens. Lately, I have been using an ultrawide-angle lens - the Tokina 11-16. If I need a fast shutter speed, I use a Nikon D40 body, and if I need to capture sense of movement or longer shutter speed, I use a Nikon D90. Perhaps someday, instead of just using Hoya R72 filters, I'll be using a converted camera. I always shoot in RAW. Inside Photoshop, my "bread and butter" steps are red-blue swap in the channel mixer layer and color shifts in the color balance layer. I always aim for white leaves and blue skies but composition is still the key.

Other interests: If you check out my Flickr page, you may notice that I love almost all genres of photography. I call myself a "weekend shooter". so I just try to take advantage of what's in front of me. Aside from photography, I'm also into video gaming and fiction novels.

Some of my favorite IR shots:

Ronald's IR Gallery

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Ronald know how much you enjoy and appreciate his wonderful IR Photography!

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Desert Rat

2009-02-17T22:50:00.001-06:00

Hello IR Lovers! Once again we travel half-way around the globe from our previous destination. This time to sunny Southern California. With the consistant sunny climate in the mild deserts where Los Angeles is located, it just has to be an IR Paradise. Well, as we will see, every place has it's admirers, and those who find other locals more suitable. Our Featured Photographer, shows us how IR-Friendly the sunny Southwestern part of the United States can be. Here's a photographer we can appreciate for his selection of tools to do the job. A shooter of high end Nikon DSLR models, he shows us how it's done with a modded Canon Powershot Pro 1. Proof positive that a DSLR is not a requirement when it comes to IR.

BIO: Hi. I live in Los Angeles, CA, a city that is a veritable concrete jungle. Since it is a metropolitan city made up of intertwining, sprawling suburban neighborhoods, it can be difficult to find good places for my favorite photography subjects—landscapes and wildlife. When I do venture out on a photographic adventure, I prefer places that offer the peace and solitude seldom found in and around LA. Currently, I have a Nikon D2X that I use as my workhorse camera, a Nikon D300 as a backup camera, and I converted the Canon POWERSHOT Pro 1 as my dedicated IR camera.

Photography has been my BIG hobby for most of my life. I grew up in Michigan where my father was a professional wedding photographer. I would often assist him on weekends and that’s when my appreciation for photography began. I followed my folks to Phoenix, AZ where I studied biology at Arizona State University. Afterward, I studied electron microscopy at Cal State University Fullerton in CA. I fell in love with the rich photographic possibilities I found in the American Southwest. The desert offers a plentitude of natural beauty everywhere you look, from wildflowers to monsoonal thunderstorms to candy-striped rock formations.

I shot mostly slide film for years, before taking up the digital photography banner. I was using the Nikon F5 while on a photography trip to Page, AZ with some friends in 2004. One friend had easily embraced the age of digital photography and enjoyed it so much that he brought two digital cameras with him on the trip and gave me his backup camera Nikon D70 to play with, I mean, test. I was instantly captivated with the way it handled. It was exciting to be able to quickly view recently shot photographs and make adjustments to the compositions immediately. I don’t have space for a darkroom, so it was always challenging to take pictures and wait several weeks until the processed slides returned before I knew whether my efforts were note-worthy. With digital photography, if the images were not what I had intended, I could delete them many times over without thinking twice about film or processing cost! Not something I could have done when I was shooting with film.

Outside of my affection for wide scenic landscapes, wildlife, macro and aviation photography, I was looking for new pictorial ideas. My girlfriend suggested looking into infrared photography. I found that I could use the Hoya R72 filter and adjustments to the white balance on a DSLR to convert an image to IR. All of a sudden, another new world of photography became fascinating. Simply the way grass blades and trees glow with that bright white yet soft light, the way lakes and ponds transform into stark black mirrors, the way the sky becomes this sharp, dark counterpoint to a landscape is to appreciate Mother Nature’s grandeur on a higher level. The overall composition goes from just a good color image to a magical, ethereal one—an entirely new photograph altogether! That sealed it. I bought a Canon P&S based on recommendations and had it converted to a dedicated IR camera, and the rest, as they say, is history!

I am honored to have been invited to share my photos on this website. I hope you enjoy my work, and can appreciate how fascinating this medium can be. I welcome all comments.

Here are a few of my Favorite IR Photographs from my Gallery.

Here's A Link to My IR Galleries

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let the Artist know how much you enjoy and appreciate his inpressive IR Photography!

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Ruel Tafalla

2009-02-15T16:19:00.000-06:00

This time the Feature is on IR Photographer Ruel Tafalla who brings us stunningly colored IR images from his current home in Florida, as well as the Philippines, and various countries in and around Indonesia. Ruel currently shoots with a modified Canon 30D, and various filters. Quoting from his pbase gallery, "using a modified Canon Camera, with this modification, I can shoot Infrared like images at faster shutter speeds compared to using IR filters mounted on the lens which needs a tripod due to it's slow shutter speed. The camera is modified to shoot 30% IR + 40% Visible light + 30% UV. The result are very saturated yellow leaves, blue skies and 80% normal skin tone". And, "the photos that have a brown tint or almost BW IR, a red filter is used, Shutter speed is still fast enough for hand held shots" . Please welcome Ruel Tafalla.

Bio: I live in South Florida for almost 9 months now. I have been shooting Infrared for almost a year. I am using a canon 30d modified to shoot infrared only. I like shooting landscapes in IR and in Color. I have been doing this hobby since 2001. I learned Photography in Indonesia in which I lived for 10 yrs. I learned photography by reading books from John Shaw. I got hooked in Infrared when I saw my good friend Kristupa Saragih shooting infrared. (Kristupa Saragih is the founder of the biggest Indonesian Photography Community "Fotografer.net") I was mesmerized with the images he produced, the rest is history. I like to shoot infrared Landscapes that have bodies of water. It gives a nice overall effect on the image specially if the there is a reflection of the landscape itself in the water. My Favorite place to shoot Infrared here is Morikami Japanese Garden, GreenCay Wetlands and Boynton Inlet. One of the biggest thing that happen to me this year is winning the Palm Beach Post Focus on Nature Contest, in which I won the First Place on the Oceans Category (non IR) and getting featured in Photography Magazines (3x) for my Infrared Photos.

A few of my favorite IR Photos:

Ruel's IR Gallery:

Infrared Dreams

Ruel's Blog

Ruel's IR on Flickr

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Ruel know how much you enjoy and appreciate his fantastic and colorful images in IR!

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Andrea Lohmann

2009-01-07T07:33:00.000-06:00

Andrea's stunning IR work gives us a look at various sites in and around her home in Pittsburgh, PA. We also get a wonderful tour of many exotic locales which she has documented in IR on her many vacation and holiday cruises. Andrea is commonly known far and wide on the major photography based forums as "Boogie". So when you run across her clown avatar and her handle, make sure you give her a shout. Also, when you get to her Gallery site, be sure to peruse Infrared #2, a second gallery of images in Infrared. Welcome Andrea!

Bio: Hi everyone. Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania is my home and offers me many opportunities for both color and Infrared photography. My city offers ethnic neighborhoods, rivers, bridges, and a beautiful countryside that leads to the mountains. I started my photography quest in my early twenties after my husband said I needed to throw away the instamatic cameras. And so it began. A few Canon slr's, a darkroom, and the wish to try IR with film which never transpired.

Then one year my brother let me borrow his Sony FD81 digital camera for my vacation and that started me on the road to digital and I've never looked back. I sold everything related to film and from that day forward I've had a ball.

My current color camera equipment includes a Canon 20D and a Canon XTi. For Infrared I have the following cameras which have been converted to IR: Sony P200, Sony N2, a Canon XTi and of course my trusty Sony F717 which is my baby and got me started on my IR fanatic craze in the first place.

So now I'm retired and enjoying the freedom of going wherever I want whenever I want to satisfy my photography addiction. We like to cruise the Caribbean once a year which is the best place for IR. The palm trees, water and bright sun are perfect for IR.

I do have one confession to make...I am an IRaholic and I hope you enjoy what I see in Infrared.

Andrea's Infrared Gallery

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Andrea know how much you enjoy and appreciate her Fantastic IR Work!

-=- Jerry -=-
.

Guest Article - Medium Format Color IR Film

2008-09-10T20:53:00.005-06:00

Hello loyal IR Buzz Readers. I am placing this on the Buzz in the Guest Articles area, as I consider it more a technical posting than anything else. But actually it is more a story of an adventure in IR and Film Photography that began when I received an introductory email from a fellow IR photographer in Germany. Dean Bennici of Munich, Germany

Dean attached the following example photos taken with the film that he describes and offers to IR Color Infrared Photographers, keeping the flame alive. I must say that I take exception with his humble assessment of his own photography skills. I think that these examples are exceptional, and I believe that you will agree.

If you are interested in purchasing some of this rare film, or checking out a few more photos:

Dean's Website

The Adventure and Story Begins: OK, so, I asked Dean if I could obtain a roll of his film to run a relaxed "test" in order to add my personal experience to complete this article. I wanted to shoot a roll the way most IR Photographers would shoot, not turning it into a super technical evaluation. Go out in the field and find and photograph interesting scenes, and have fun doing it!

The roll arrived from Germany in excellent shape, well packed, and much quicker than I ever imagined something could show up from half way around the world. Well done, so far. Inside the bubble pack envelope, the film was protected by a 120 plastic film can. On the can was a very good identity label with cautions to load in a low light situation. Also on the label is processing instructions (E-6), and an expiration date. The Processing reminder is very helpful when you get to your film lab. There is no question or mix-up as to the required developing processing instructions, unless of course you want something custom done, which then is between you and your lab.

Also inside the envelope I found an invoice telling me exactly what to expect to see on my PayPal account. No mystery here... There's always an invoice..... such is life. Anyway along with the invoice Dean included a very easy to understand printed sheet with facts about shooting the film, suggested ISO setting, and reminders about using on-lens filters. All-in-all things seemed very simple, and I can assure you that's the way it turned out in my experience.

So, film in hand, I loaded it into my Holga, just being normally careful to choose a somewhat low light situation. I usually do this when I load regular B&W film anyway, so no really extra precautions were taken.

This film is just too special to go out and waste it on "just any" scenes, so I put the camera back and waited for an opportunity that I thought worthy of the film. I didn't have long to wait. Sheryl told me that she heard good things about the shopping at a couple of outlet malls in a town a few hours away. She wanted to take a shopping weekend! Problem is she doesn't like to take me shopping. I'm the "go in, get it, pay, and leave" type. She's not. What to do? Wait a minute.... that town is where Jules Alexander lives. If you don't know Jules, he's the owner and operator of simply the VERY BEST IR Forum out there The Worldwide Infrared Photography Community 2.0

BINGO! A few emails to Jules, and we are set. Jules and I had never met face-to-face, although from his work with his Forum and mine on this Blog, we felt that we already knew each other. When I told Jules we would be "testing" this IR Color Film, he was as excited as I.

The week-end finally came around and we made our short travel. Jules greeted us upon our arrival, and he and his family were just the most gracious and helpful people you could ever meet. Saturday came around and Sheryl went off armed with the credit card. Jules showed me around his town from the IR Photographer's perspective. He provided a Yellow and an Orange filter that happened to fit my 58mm adapter ring that I had on the Holga "Optical Lens". We decided for the 'test" that we would each shoot 6 of the 12 120 frames, to see what we would get. It was really hard to restrain and "save" the next frame for the next great IR scene that Jules knew about. We chose to use the yellow filter, and true to the decision to "go out and shoot" we used that Yellow filter for all 12 frames. Later realizing that we should have given the orange filter a try on at least a few of the frames, but we enjoyed our experience and that was the most important thing.

On Monday, I located a local Photo Lab and dropped off the film in the can. I made sure that they knew that the film was IR and not to load it into their automated machines, but to develop it by hand. Why should you be so particular? Well most of the newest automated film processing machines use an internal IR LED to locate and count frames as it is developing the film. This can fog your film. The person at the Lab knew why I made this request, and that set me at ease in leaving the film with them.

I develop my own B&W film here at home, and I have an Epson 4490 flat bed scanner to scan the negatives. I can then post process the image files and print them if I desire a paper copy. Having this capability, I asked only for development of the negatives, and I had them professionally scan the frames to TIF files delivered on a DVD disk. I did not need printed copies, so I saved the cost of prints. Total for processing came to just over $10 US. Not bad!

The results are like nothing I have made in my photo career. The most obvious IR result with this film is that foliage comes out red instead of the mono whites in traditional IR Photography. Many other subtle colors pop out. I suppose that the best thing to do is just post our pictures so that you can see what you may expect when you give this a try.

The following Images are made by Jules Alexander, and are used with his permission.

This is the same image, Jules has applied some expert Post Processing to get this:

The following images were taken by me:

My final judgement is that I am really impressed by the results you can achieve with this film, despite it's high cost. If you want to give it a try, here's Dean's contact site.

Dean's Website

Copyright Statement: All images and materials displayed and showcased here, are copyrighted and are the exclusive property of the artist. Images and material may not be reproduced or used in any way without the written consent of the artist.

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Michael Moody

2008-07-30T20:59:00.000-06:00

Hello loyal IR Buzz readers. Don't you think it's about time to offer up a new Featured Photographer? Well I do, and I apologize for taking so long to publish a new Feature. Personal circumstance has consumed my free time lately, and I have been neglecting putting anything new up on the Buzz as far as Features go. Don't worry, nothing bad has occurred in my life, I've just been "busy around the house" constructing a yard storage shed. It's been a satisfying process, as well as having called upon my creativity with sticks of wood. It's about finished, and with our daytime temperatures of 105+F lately, it's getting too hot to be outside working anyway.

I've been receiving a renewed interest from you, my readers, to have a Feature published about your work. For this I am most grateful. Please do not be shy about submitting your IR work and asking for a Feature. This is really a large part of what the Buzz is all about. The world should be seeing the good things you are doing.

I received a very nice email inquiry from Mr. Michael Moody, which I just immediately had to say to myself, 'this stunning work must be presented to the Buzz readers'. Michael says, " I've lived in Portland, Oregon for the last 21 years. Each year from April through October, I love photographing the landscapes around the Pacific Northwest. But November begins the rainy season here, so that's when I like to travel to other photographic locations. I particularly like the desert southwest of the USA for photography in the fall, and I've been all over S.E. Asia. I am planning to visit Indonesia this fall, my first trip overseas since I began using converted DSLRs for infrared. "

Bio: D. Michael Moody: I became interested in photography as a high school student, bored in study hall. The chemistry teacher asked if I would like to see him working in the darkroom, since I was obviously not much interested in studying. From the first instant I saw a B+W print image slowly appear in the developer tray I knew I wanted to make my own photographs. My first photo gig was student photographer for the high school yearbook. I went on to get a degree in Photojournalism, and eventually made my way from news photography into medical photography, where I've been for the past 27 years. As a medical photographer, many of my assignments are to document processes and procedures in a very straightforward and dry style with no room for artistic expression. So when work is over, I like to get more creative in my photography and that's where Infrared comes in. I started using Kodak's HIE in the late 1970s, later trying the EIR when I had a few extra bucks to spend. I went through a period of about 10 years shooting Konica IR B+W on a Mamiya RB67. That was a big rig to take backpacking!

With the advent of digital IR, I started out putting a Hoya R72 filter on my Canon G3 and Nikon d70. While encouraged by the results, it wasn't until I had Lifepixel convert my d70 to full time IR that I became totally addicted. I now shoot with a Lifepixel 665 Nikon d80 and a MyInfrared.com 400 Nikon d80. Here are a few of my favorite images. I hope you enjoy them.

Here's a Link to My IR Galleries

Be sure to comment freely to Michael's stunning false color and B&W IR work!

-=- Jerry -=-

Shooting IR at Night? - You must be Joking!

2008-07-20T16:23:00.006-06:00

Hello IR Buzz readers. Sorry to take so long to publish anything new, but other projects in my life have been consuming all of my free time. Things are getting closer to completion, and I hope to have a lot more time to devote to the Buzz from now on.

IR at Night I say????? Up until now, my mind set for IR Photography has always been that it needed to be done in full sunlight, or if full sunlight was not available, at least done during daylight hours. So, that's all I have ever tried. Conditions for IR have always been pretty much the same, so much so that I hardly ever make any setting changes to my camera for any IR I take.

Recently a whole new opportunity presented itself, being the experimental type that I am, I decided, why not?, go for it! It will either work, or it won't. The camera club that I attend had a group shoot scheduled for night time fireworks. Here in the United States we celebrate our Independance Day on July 4th. This always means many outdoor summer activities, parades, picnics and the like, and always the day is finished up with many, many professional fireworks displays. Naturally that means long exposure shooting from a tripod, and just as naturally, the fireworks being so colorful against the night sky, the photography should be done in Visible Color Light. Well, yes. A natural plan.

I have done a number of Fireworks shoots, always in color, and pretty much have the process down. But, this time when I thought of being with a group of photographers all in the same place, all taking basically identical shots, I just had to be different somehow. I wondered what would happen if I took my photos in IR. Is there even any IR light available at night? We know the sun produces plenty of IR for us, but what's out there at night?

The only light would be man-made since the sun is down. Is there any IR produced by man made lighting, on buildings, or by the Fireworks themselves? Ony one way to find out, just give it a try. If it didn't work out, the other photographers would have plenty of color shots.

Well, I'm happy to report that there is indeed IR light from man made lighting, and it can be captured with a digital camera.

When we all got to the site that was chosen by the club to photograph the Fireworks, I set up my IR modded Canon 350D on my tripod, just as all of the other photographers. I have a remote shutter release, and it was pulled out and set up on the camera. I decided to use my 28-135 IS lens set at a wide angle to capture the Fireworks bursts. I focused on the skyline buildings of Ft Worth, and with the lens basically at infinity, turned off autofocus on the lens. On Manual settings, ISO 400, I decided to try F8 and 4 seconds, as I have had good luck with that in previous years in Visible light. I also decided to try this using the trusty Custom White Balance that I took off green grass, the one I pretty much use for all of my IR work with this camera.

As the sun was setting, I took a few test shots to see what I'd get, and to get my composition and background situated. We knew basically where the bursts would occur from shooting this location in previous years. The Fireworks program was being held at the home field of the Ft Worth Cats, minor league baseball team. This one was taken just as the sun was setting, and still reflecting off the glass of the buildings. The blown out lights on the right hand side that were giving me all that lens flair are from the baseball field. I knew that they would be turned off once the Fireworks started.

Another test shot a bit later as the sun was almost completely down and the sky was turning black. Still a bit of reflection off the towers, and the baseball field lights were really blasting. Still, the skyline was looking good to me. So, the main question was answered, man made lighting does have quite a lot of IR light in it.

So all that remained was to stand around and enjoy the companionship of my fellow photographers while we waited for the Fireworks to begin. Soon enough the baseball game ended and the Fireworks put on quite a spactacular show for us. I didn't change any of my settings during the show, and really did not use any particular skill on my part. I just made as many 4 second exposures as I could, knowing full well that I would have a lot of shots to discard, but conversely, that I would be getting some good ones as I went along.

Here are a few of them with some comments:

The Custom White Balance and the Canon sensor produced the golden, white, and blue colors you see here in the following photos. I chose not to do a lot of post processing to these so that you can see basically what's coming from the camera. These were all shot as JPGs. I have tried some of the more common post processing that is usually done. B&W conversions work very well. False color is out, as there really was no sky color available at night as would be in daytime IR.

I also include a couple of "problem" images so that you know what you may expect if you give this a try. Lens flare on some of the brighter, over-exposed bursts was severe, and gave me some very interesting patterns.

The end of the display, or the Finale, is what all Visible light shooters are waiting for, but I was not very successful capturing that part in IR. In color, the different colored bursts differientate themselves, but in IR, with no color definition, it tends to appear as an over-exposed blob of light. Also, just as clouds are very well defined in daylight IR, so is the smoke from the bursts in the air, also contributing to the over-exposed aspect.

Here's a Link to the entire Gallery

Copyright Statement: All images and materials displayed and showcased here, are copyrighted and are the exclusive property of the artist. Images and material may not be reproduced or used in any way without the written consent of the artist.

I hope that this post is helpful, and gives you some new ideas for things you can do in IR. Obviously we are not restricted to shooting only in the daytime. I can't wait to get a chance to do some nighttime shooting, maybe some long exposures of moving objects and light trails. Get out there and give this a try!

-=- Jerry -=-

And now for something completely different - IR Film

2008-07-11T23:23:00.000-06:00

Infrared Photography has almost completely shifted from Film to Digital in the last few years. I can easily say that Digital IR experimentation only started less than 5 years ago. Fully half of that time, the IR work that was going on was almost 100% done with what was called the "Prosumer" camera, or the high end of what we now generally consider "Point and Shoot" cameras. This was mainly due to the fact that DSLRs either didn't exist, or the ones that did exist were so expensive that few hobby shooters could afford them. Of course that is rapidly changing now that Digital DSLRs are commonly available and affordable. All of the advantages that photographers found in the change from Film to Digital carry over into IR Photography. So the switch-over has been rapid, with very little return to film, exactly like what has happened to Visible Light Color Photography. So is film dead? And more to the point, is IR Film dead? I'm afraid that I don't have that answer any more that anyone else. Film is still available in most of the popular sizes, Color and Black and White more so than IR Film. You will probably have to do some searching to find IR Film, but it is still available. One source I have found is http://www.freestylephoto.biz/ They carry efke IR 820 B&W Negative Film, which is basically sensitive to 820nm in the IR Light Spectrum. It's pretty pricey at around $10 per roll + shipping. They recommend that you shoot this film thru an IR Pass Filter such as the Hoya R72. The film develops in standard B&W negative chemicals such as Kodak D-76. So for the sake of the IR Buzz, I decided to bail off into the IR Film world, at least enough to understand the basic issues and to be able to report them to you in a pictorial format. I have recently been smitten with the charms of the plastic toy cameras, specifically the Holga film cameras. The Holgas use 120 medium format film, and IR B&W negative film is available in 120, so it seemed only natural that I would do a bit of playing and experimentation with the Holga, shooting that expensive IR Film. When I started shooting film again with the Holga, I immediately bumped up against the issues that I, as a film shooter dealt with 25 years ago. OK, I got a roll of film, I went out and exposed all of the frames on the roll, and now it's time to have it developed and printed. Well, in the "old days" I usually just took it to my local drug store and let them develop and print my works of art. Thinking about it, it didn't take long to realize that this new wrinkle to my hobby was negating the "film is free" concept of digital, and was going to start costing me some serious money if I decided to shoot any amount of film! I had taken some Community College Photography courses in my early days, and one of the things I did at that time to maximize my available time in the college darkroom, was to develop my own B&W negatives so that I would have them ready for class time, and not have to develop the film and "waste" a week's evening class time. I had purchased a light tight develop tank, and a graduated cylinder to measure the chemicals. I recalled how easy it was, and how inexpensive the chemicals were. A quick search of my garage turned up the tank and measuring cylinder. Good thing they never sold in the numerous garage sales they were in! I never imagined that I would ever have a use for them again, but I'm basically a pack rat for this very reason. So, with some diligent searching around on the internet, I found time and temperature charts for developing my B&W film. I probably shot and developed around 15 rolls of standard B&W, with pretty good success, so I was ready to develop my IR Film negatives. The charts for the efke film on freestylephoto’s web site were quite similar to the charts I had been using for my B&W negatives, so with a measure of confidence I developed the first IR roll. I’m proud to say that the negatives looked good after they dried.

I have to back up here just a little bit. When I got those first rolls of standard B&W negatives developed, I once again faced a bit of a problem. That being that I do not have a darkroom or any of the equipment I would need to make prints from them. So, once again it was time to do a little thinking and research. One thing I could do was to take my negatives to a place that develops film and makes prints, and let them print them to paper for me. If I did that, I might as well have just let them do the negative development as well. I should interject here that if you let a commercial company develop your IR negatives, BE SURE that you tell them that you have IR Film. Most of the automated equipment that they use has internal IR LEDs that recognize and count frames while the film is being developed. If they simply put your IR Film into the automated machine, your undeveloped film strip will be fogged by the light of the IR LEDs. So, if they do not specifically say that they will develop your roll manually, don’t let them develop your film. If they don’t know what you are talking about, run away, don’t walk.

If you do decide to have your film developed, you may consider having them also scan the negatives to digital files, and burn a CD disk for you. So you are now set, you have developed negatives, some paper prints, and a CD with digital JPG files. If you have a decent printer on your PC, you just may want to eliminate the cost of the paper prints, and print from the CD yourself. Remember, you have no idea what you are going to get back, you had no way to review the shots you took on the film, like you do with digital. So, you may be paying for prints that are award winners, but then again, some of them may be images that you would trash. It becomes obvious that your best bet would be to get negatives and digital scanned files on CD. That way you can treat the digital files just as you would any other image file that you deal with in the digital camera world. Plus you have the negatives for long term backup.

I happened to have a flat bed scanner that I vaguely seemed to remember had the ability to scan “pictures and negatives”. So I dug out the instruction book and the long ago stored away negative holders and proceeded to try scanning the negatives that I developed. Well, it didn’t take long to realize that my scanner was capable of scanning 35mm negatives and slides, but was not set up to handle the larger 120 medium format film negatives. Oh it would scan them OK, but it also insisted on cropping the result to a 35mm size. No way around it. Well I was by this time too deep into Holga’s siren call and crappy picture grip to turn back at this point, so I started looking for a replacement scanner that was capable of 120 medium format negatives as well as prints and 35mm negatives. Having priced the commercial development and scan to CD, it became clear that a sparkling new scanner would pay for itself rather quickly. I found an Epson 4490 flat bed scanner for a good price, and it has been doing an excellent job of turning my analog negatives into digital files I can work with in Photoshop.

Whew! That was really a long drawn out description of just coming out and saying that I develop my own B&W film, both standard and IR. I also scan my negatives to obtain digital files that I handle just like any of the files that I get from my digital cameras. I just wanted to wade thru all of that to help you decide what your options are and what kind of decisions you might make in your own film shooting. Also, I want to tell you that it’s not hard to do, you are capable of doing all the steps yourself, and save a bunch of money in the process.

Let’s talk about actually shooting the IR Film with the Holga camera. I mentioned that freestylephoto recommended using a Hoya R72 IR Pass filter with the efke IR Film that I ordered. The Holgas are really primitive plastic cameras, and the thought process in their design did not take into account that someone might one day want to use a filter in front of the plastic “Optical Lens”. Fortunately if you have any sense of adventure in you at all you will find a way. My Hoya R72 was 58mm to fit my Sony 717 lens threads. So, I ordered a cheap metal “step ring” that converts from 46mm threads to 58mm threads. I had found from some internet searches and forum discussions that the Holga lens is very close to 46mm inside diameter. The plastic is also soft, so it’s no mean trick to just screw the step ring onto the Holga lens, cutting your own threads into the soft plastic as you go. Pretty neat! Now any of my 58mm based accessories for my Sony can be mounted on the Holga, including for this discussion the Hoya R72.

Looking at some of the charts and recommendations on the freestylephoto site for the efke film, and considering the fixed 1/100 shutter speed and F13 aperture of the Holga, it was apparent that exposures might need to be a bit long. So, the Holga, having a ¼ 20 tripod mount insert, I got out my cheap tripod. I also dug out the adapter and shutter cable release (also available from freestylephoto), pushed the little switch on the Holga to “B” for Bulb, and prepared to experiment with exposures on that expensive film. Long story short, in good daylight I found that a 1 to 2 second exposure with the cable release and on the tripod seemed go give me an acceptable image. In bright sunlight, I’d probably go for 1 second. On a muted overcast day, 2 seconds and a bit longer may be best. So, on two different days, and under overcast and somewhat clear conditions, I shot the 2 rolls of IR film I bought. I developed the negatives and scanned them on the Epson scanner. Photoshop helped me clean them up a bit, but the examples I am posting here are not significantly altered from what I got from the negatives off the scanner.

So there you have it! All of the information you need to shoot IR Film with a cheap Holga camera. IR FIlm is also available in 35mm format, so if you are willing to do some experimentation, you could use your old trusty 35mm SLR to do some IR. Do be aware that some of the later SLR's had IR LEDs inside to count frames. If yours does, it could cause the film to be fogged just as previously described. So, the older model 35mm manual cameras without the IR LEDs might be the best choice for IR Film.

Here are a few of the Images I got from the Holga. I believe that these could stand some further post processing in Photoshop to get the white foliage, and improve the exposure somewhat. I tried to limit the amount of post processing I have done on these images in order to show you approximately how they turn out.

My Holga IR Film Gallery

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Jack Chia

2008-05-03T20:13:00.003-06:00

Another Singapore guy shows up here on the latest IR Buzz Feature with some really special work. You know, since I've started this endeavour, the IR Buzz, I have had many, many "WOW" moments when I first see the work that the Featured Artists submit to the Showcase. Jack's works certainly made my jaw drop when I first opened his IR Gallery. I think that you will completely agree. Fantastic stuff! Jack Chia's IR tool of choice gives us yet another view and experience of what can be done in IR, this time with a high end Canon DSLR, a converted 5D with some really nice white "L" glass. There are so many camera choices that can produce IR, it is always good for us to examine what our peers are using, and to get ideas about what these various camera models are capable of. In addition to this, I've noticed a real trend of camera IR Block modifications to glass that blocks and allows many more parts of the light spectrum to reach the camera's sensor. Jack is not alone in not telling fully just what filter he has installed inside his 5D. Sometimes an Artist just has to keep a few secrets, and I really don't blame them. Welcome to the IR Buzz Jack!

Bio: I recall playing with my father's China-made TLR (Twin Lens Reflex) when I was young. Later, when I was slightly older, I was allowed to take some family shots with film camera but the reception I got was always less than pleasant as I habitually cropped off my family members' heads or legs in the photos. Photography really took off for me only in March 2007 when I got my first digital SLR, a Canon 400D. Digital photography opened a brand new world to me as I no longer had to worry about film and development cost, I could be trigger-happy and I could see what I had photographed almost instantly. I confess that I am now obsessed with photography. I always have my camera with me and I shoot whenever I can, be it the weekends or just a couple of hours here and there in between mundane tasks.

IR photography now forms a big chunk of my photography. I use a converted Canon 5D together with either the 17-40mm f4L lens or the 70-200mm f4L lens. Because of the way the Canon 5D has been modified, I produce mainly colour IR shots instead of monochrome images. Apart from doing landscape photography, I am always trying to move beyond that and use IR for other forms such animal photography and portrait photography. I experiment quite a lot in IR (in both shooting and processing) but I try always to be respectful of fundamental photography rules such as balance and composition.

Here are a few of my favorite IRs.

Jack's IR Gallery

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Jack know how much you enjoy and appreciate his extraordinary IR Photography!

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Haja Maideen

2008-03-25T18:59:00.007-06:00

My goodness we skip around the Globe a lot here on the IR Buzz. Back we go to Singapore! Have you noticed just how many talented photographers there are from that area of the world? And who are infatuated with IR? I am just constantly amazed at the talent over there, and the scenes for IR..... those folks are in IR Heaven! Haja Maideen joins us this time, and reminds us of the great job the Sony DSC-F828 can do in it's built-in Nightshot mode. The Sony 828 is a really inexpensive way to start in IR. No expensive mods required, just 2 or three 58mm filters, and you are set. The 58mm size is a real asset in itself. Filters in that size are cheap compared to the larger and much more expensive 72mm and 77mm filters needed for most DSLR lenses. You can equip yourself with everything you need for less than $100US, where a Hoya R72 in 77mm can run more than twice that. Anyway, let's knock off the discussion of pricey filters and join Haja for a tour thru his practiced IR-Eye. Haja shoots with his 828, but he also tells us that he has modded a Nikon D70s for IR. I expect that we can count on seeing many, many more beautiful IR shots as he learns to add this camera to his IR tool box. (And a Diana toy camera shooter too - awesome!). Welcome Haja!

My name is Haja Maideen (pronounceD My-din). I am from Singapore. At a very young age I got interested in photography. When I was 10 years old I bought my first camera. It was a Diana plastic camera. When I was carrying it around people thought it was supposed to shoot out water. When I was working in General Electric, I met a guy by the name of Dennis Lim who was a part-time photography lecturer at the local club. He was the guy who taught me photography. I bought a Pentax K1000 and began to shoot pictures. In a few months, I upgraded to a Nikon FM2 and I went out with Dennis Lim almost every weekend to shoot pictures. Later, I was transferred to the Department where Dennis Lim worked. That was a blessing to me. Every day, we chatted about photography. In 2003 I bought a Sony F828. Thats when I started IR photography. I used the nightshot mode and attached ND filters and a Hoya R72 to shoot day light infrared pictures. I don't do post processing or any other adjustment in Photoshop. In fact I don't have Photoshop installed in my PC. I have GIMP, a free Photoshop look-a-like photo editing software, but I am not familiar with it. In February 2008, I bought a used Nikon D70s and asked a guy to swap the hot mirror with a Hoya R72 glass. When the camera came back, the pictures aren't satisfactory. I prefer the Sony F828 color tone but since I already spent "big" money on the Nikon D70s and paid a guy to modify it, I would rather use it then keep it in the dry cabinet. Now I am eyeing on the Nikon 12-24mm f/4G IF-ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor

Here are a few of my own favorites of my IR work.

Haja's IR Gallery

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Haja know how much you enjoy and appreciate his IR Photography!

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Dannie Tjahjono

2008-02-09T22:47:00.002-06:00

Well hello again IR Shooters. Once again we skip across the world to find another super talented IR Photographer, Dannie Tjahjono. Dannie hails from Indonesia, and I might add, does a very good job of capturing scenes from his world in Infrared. Dannie, (as he will tell you in his Bio.,) uses a Sony DSC-F717 for his IR work. This workhorse IR camera is the one that many of us cut our IR teeth on, and many, myself included, still consider it one of our primary tools when we go afield searching for IR. Welcome to the IR Buzz Dannie Tjahono!

Bio: My name is Dannie Tjahjono, I am from Indonesia and I have been living in Singapore for 8 years with my wife. My first experience with camera was when my ex-girlfriend (who is my wife now) gave me an Olympus film camera. It's a good camera but still, I felt I need to upgrade to a digital camera as I could see the result instantly. One of my friends advised me to buy Sony F717, this was the turning point where I started learning photography.

The IR photography came to my attention when somebody 'scolded' my pictures and challenged me for IR picture. I would say, the IR Buzz is one my favorites website where I learned IR in the beginning. Some of my favorites IR photographers who inspire me are Niek Haak and Joseph Levy and I really thank you to John Buffin who guided me so well when I was in learning curve pain. (Editor's Note: Dannie sent me a link to John's IR work and it is really good! John, if you are reading this, please consider a Feature here to share your talents with our readership.)

I am using my lovely Sony F717 with Hoya IR72 plus CPL and (sometimes) ND4 in nightshot mode. It's more fun as I do not need to use tripod. Till now, I have no plan to modify this camera yet.

Why do I love IR? The Color! What I don't like IR? Have to take on a very day hot sun! What's my challenge? To make my IR picture as good as a modified IR camera. It might be very difficult or even my day dreaming, but it makes me to keep learning and explore.

Some of my favorite IR shots:

Dannie's IR Gallery

Copyright Statement: All images and materials displayed and showcased here, are copyrighted and are the exclusive property of the artist. Images and material may not be reproduced or used in any way without the written consent of the artist.

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Dannie know how much you enjoy and appreciate his wonderful IR Photography!

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Chun Lo

2008-01-21T20:04:00.000-06:00

For our first IR Photographer Feature in 2008 we are traveling to Hong Kong to visit with Mr. Chun Lo. Chun shoots IR with a variety of cameras, and obtains some stunning scenes from his local, from which we have the honor of seeing what life is like in his part of the world. He favors urban images, and has studied, and is an artist in his own right with brush and knife. I'll just let him tell you about his accomplishments in his extensive Bio. Welcome Chun!

Bio: After living in mainland China, Japan and Australia, Chun Lo is now based in Hong Kong. As a young pupil in China, he studied Chinese ink and brush painting, choreography and traditional seal carving. He was later influenced by Japanese arts and crafts during his stay in Japan as a student.

Chun Lo was immediately hooked when he saw digital infrared photography for the first time in the end of 2003, and started a series of exciting experiments marked by trials, errors and exhilarating success. The otherworldly beauty of infrared images stems from its mysterious aura, with gloom and loneliness permeated in magnificence and grace. Chun’s favorite shooting sites are in Hong Kong, because the bustling urban surroundings would turn into strange yet familiar scenes of dreamy serenity in infrared photos, bringing out the nostalgia so deeply rooted in the urban dwellers.

Digital cameras have made this peek around the red end of the visible spectrum easier than ever before. Chun started out using a Nikon 950, then modified a Canon G2 as his main infrared camera. He also modified a Pro 1 subsequently. A Canon Powershot A640 is his main camera now, which can be used for both infrared and normal color photos. Each modification was a DIY effort. Chun has experimented with three ways of shooting infrared photography by a digital camera:

1. Use 2.0M pixel cameras like Nikon 950, Canon G1, Olympus 2020 etc. attach Hoya R72, keep the aperture fully open and highest ISO on a fiercely sunny day, the fastest shutter speed you can use is 1/30. The disadvantage is that the pixel is very low, and most of the time, a tripod is a must.

2. Use a Sony 7x7 series camera, in Nightshot mode and with R72 on, you can shoot at the fastest shutter speed on 1/60. If the sunlight is too strong, you have to add 1 or 2 ND4 filters. A moderate effect will be obtained when you manage the colors for your images.

3. To modify the camera, remove the hot mirror and replace with a clear glass, you can use full range of shutter speeds with ISO 50. The effect of producing color image is the best so far. However, once the camera is modified, it is pretty much infrared only although you can potentially add a screw-on hot mirror for color correction. Furthermore, you have to give up the original manufacturer guaranty and take the risk of malfunction of your equipment.

For alternatives 1 and 2, you only need to spend about US$50 for several filters. There is no risk but the equipment is not very convenient to use, and the image formation is not ideal. For alternative 3, you can shoot whenever and wherever as you please, and the results are almost perfect. However, you have to take the risk of losing a camera costing US$600. No pain, no gain.

Here are some of my favorite IR Images:

My Infrared Landscape Gallery

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Chun know how much you enjoy and appreciate his fabulous IR Photography!

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Bevan Badcott

2007-12-09T12:38:00.000-06:00

Once again we travel to Australia, the "Land Down Under" as they so aptly describe it. Graphic Artist, Bevan Badcott allows us the pleasure and privilege to take a peek at his wonderful IR work. Bevan currently shoots with a Fuji S5600, a camera we have, so far, not encountered in any of the previous Features. The continent of Australia is a obvious wonderland for the IR Photographer. I'm sure that, like myself, you would love to visit down there someday, and really put your IR gear to work. Please welcome Bevan Badcott.

Bio: I was born in the UK in 1951, and was raised to appreciate nature and wildlife. I was fortunate to have a gift for drawing and used this to further my passion for native flora and fauna. My Father was a keen photographer but in my earlier years I concentrated my efforts on graphite renditions of animals. I emigrated to Australia in 1971 and was immediately awe struck by the diversity and beauty of the Australian bush. When digital came along I found the use of this medium beneficial to my work as a graphite artist in gathering reference material. With the progression of my interest in digital photography I came across a website featuring infrared photographs and was absolutely blown away by the fantastic transformations that can be achieved when using this method. I purchased a modified Fuji S5600 and started literally finding IR subjects everywhere. I hope you like my work, and that it inspires you to try shooting in this medium.

Here is a Link to my IR Gallery

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Bevan know how much you enjoy and appreciate his IR work!

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Bruce Burton

2007-10-28T14:12:00.000-06:00

Digital Infrared Photography, although maturing rapidly, is definately an aspect of photography that is more open to experimentation than just about any that I know of, or in fact, can think of. For this Feature our artist Bruce Burton takes an almost unusual traditional approach in IR, and shoots a traditional subject, Architecture. Specifically the architecture in and around Ft. Worth, TX. Many of us IR shooters have no doubt noticed the nice textures and tones that we get from various buildings. But, I think Bruce is one of the few artists who has concentrated his IR work on Architecture. This is not to say that he limits himself to only one genre, as Bruce has many stunning IR shots of all sorts of subjects in his portfolio. I think you may find yourself inspired to add a few more architectural shots to your own body of work after you study Bruce's gallery. You will at least be more attuned to the possibilities as you travel around your own cities. Please welcome Bruce Burton.

Bio: I live in Fort Worth, Texas and work as a college teacher. I snapped my first digital photo in Spring, 2002, using an HP C200 1MP camera. Since then I’ve owned a half dozen different cameras. Currently, I use a Sony DSC-H2 for color and a modified Sony DSC-F707 to take infrared photos. I’ve only been shooting IR since April, 2006. Initially, I just used the F707 in the Nightshot Mode, but last Spring I had it converted by Maxmax to IR plus visible.

One abiding interest I have in both color and infrared photography is architecture. Obviously, buildings and man-made structures don’t move around, so I’m able to consider more carefully the best situation for each photograph and return again and again to capture different perspectives and lighting. I believe infrared works especially well in architecture because an object which in the visible color range appears drab and ordinary no matter the natural lighting can really emerge much more dramatically in the infrared spectrum to become quite extraordinary.

All the current photos in my online infrared Pbase albums were taken with the Sony F707. My post processing has been a mixed bag as I’ve changed methods and workflow several times. I am still in hardest part of the digital IR photography learning curve; consequently, I’m most humbled to be asked to share my photos with this blog’s audience. Thank you for viewing them, and I welcome any suggestions you might have.

Here are a few of my own Favorite IR Photos.

Gallery of my Architectural Photos

Gallery of my Landscapes Photos

I also want to include a link to Bruce's Photo Blog. Although not entirely dedicated to IR, Bruce posts a lot of IR, and I have always enjoyed viewing his photos there.

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Bruce know how much you enjoy and appreciate his Architectural images in IR!

-=- Jerry -=-

Happy New Year - 2008

2007-10-27T21:46:00.000-06:00

Greetings and Best Wishes for the New current Year -- 2008. It never ceases to amaze me how quickly time rushes past. I sincerely hope that last year - 2007 was a good one for you, and true to the focus of this web site, a productive IR learning experience for you. It is also absolutely amazing to think that I, an amatuer photographer, and truly an amatuer at Infared Photography, could sit down and build a site like this from scratch. Possessing nothing more than a few years of IR shooting experience and the bold desire to do it, this site was born. The Internet is certainly an amazing place!

The first Post, the 'Welcome' went online in the waning days of February 2007, on the 20th day. It was another 7 days, Feb. 27th to be exact, until I learned how to include a site tracker to gather statistics on the hits my site was getting. The results were surprising to say the least. Importantly, they quickly told me that there is indeed a readership for this kind of information, and that the effort to build it was a worthwhile endeavor. So I perservered in my quest. In 2007 the IR Buzz received 21,850 visits from you, my readers. Currently the site receives around 60+ visits per day, and the number goes up dramatically when a new Featured Photographer is posted. Even more telling, you have stayed around to read from the site while you are here. You looked at a total of 56,882 pages from those visits, which during quiet times averages around 200+ pages opened per day. I never dreamed that this site would have so much activity, especially an unknown web site in it's first year of existance. For this, I am humbly and eternally grateful. Thank You!

(click on the graphics for a full size view, use your browser's Back button to return).

Accomplishments: I have built a Nine Part, self authored, "Infrared For Beginners Series" which I trust has been helpful to you, to understand some of the Issues of IR Photography, and hopefully has given you the information that you need in order to get started. But, the one thing that really makes this site successful is participation by you, my readers. This comes in the form of the highly successful "Featured IR Photographers Showcase" series, and "Guest Articles".

Guest Articles: Niek Haak has graced these pages with two highly informative technical articles, and more are in the works for 2008. If you have not read them, here are direct links:

Sony H9 Review

Sony 7x7 Modification for IR

Thank you Niek!

Featured IR Photographer Showcase: Not counting my own Feature to get the series kicked off, 13 of the very best IR Photographers from around the world have their work Featured here. I believe that the chance to view what other talented artists are doing in IR, is the best tool available to foster imagination, inspiration, and creativity in our own work. These people have been most generous with their efforts and time, and I just can't thank them enough for allowing their work on the IR Buzz. They certainly deserve a big "Thank You" from all of the site readership. If you have reviewed these Features in the past, you may be missing some of their best work. They continually add new images to their Galleries, so be sure to go back and take a fresh look at their work. Here are links, in alphabetical order.

The list is growing. I have some wonderful artists planned for the coming year, but there are always openings, so please do not be shy, contact me and join these talented artists on the IR Buzz.

And Finally, on Dec 14th the IR Buzz received the Best Blog of the Day Award.

2007 was a great year for the IR Buzz, and ultimately it's all due to it's readership...You! So, thank you very, very much, and join me in anticipation of even better and greater things in 2008.

-=- Jerry -=-

Guest Article: Modify the Sony 717 for IR -- Niek Haak

2007-10-21T19:06:00.000-06:00

Frequent Guest Article contributor, Niek Haak is back with a comprehensive, step-by-step tutorial to show you exactly how to modify a Sony DSC-F717 for shooting Infrared in all camera modes. The Sony 717 is well known as an excellent IR tool when you use it's unique "Nightshot" feature. Nightshot however has some limitations. On this model, shutter speed is limited to 1/60 second or slower, and the Aperture is automatically set wide open, usually F2.0. Although Nightshot is very useful, many 717 owners dream of being able to shoot action scenes in IR at very fast shutter speeds. Creative IR shooters also wish they could set a custom white balance, which can open up new worlds of false color in IR. Aperture and DOF control are also missed by Nightshot users. Well, here Niek presents the mod of your dreams, and shows you exactly how to do it yourself. If you decide that you are not skilled enough, or brave enough to do it yourself, this article is still great information, providing you an in-depth look at what a professional will be doing to mod your 717 for you. The article is structured into 6 logical pages, so be sure to page thru all of them to get the full story.

Copyright Statement: All images and written materials published in this Guest Article Contribution are copyrighted and are the exclusive property of the author. Images and material may not be reproduced or used in any way without the written consent of the author.

Begin by going to Page 1

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Jim Kramer

2007-10-07T11:18:00.000-06:00

In this, the latest Featured Showcase, we return to the United States for a visit with Jim Kramer and his home, the area around Cincinnati, Ohio. We also get to see and compare the results that Jim gets from his IR converted Canon 10D DSLR. Jim favors us with an very well written and extensive Bio, so, rather than go on here, I will just let you get to know him and his exceptional IR work. Welcome Jim!

Bio: I am a freelance photographer from Cincinnati, Ohio. My interest in photography started early in childhood. That interest became a hobby when a friend in high school took me into a B&W darkroom for the first time. I was amazed at watching the process of a print developing right before my eyes. In the early 80's I purchased my first film SLR, and started developing my own color slides in my apartment's makeshift darkroom (bathroom). I eventually ended up with a very nice color darkroom setup including a computer controlled color enlarger, a cold light B&W enlarger, and a color processor. For a short time I had the pleasure of shooting a Mamiya 645 Pro, what a nice piece of equipment that was!

A few years back I sold all of my darkroom equipment, and went full digital. Today’s darkroom consists of Photoshop CS2, and a variety of plug-ins. My interest in infrared photography began about a year ago when I stumbled upon a few galleries on PBase featuring IR work. I fell in love with both the false color, and ultra high contrast B&W capabilities that IR brings to the digital world. I quickly purchased a R72 external filter for my Canon 10D, and started experimenting. My first attempts were very disappointing. I started researching the subject on the internet, looking for as much information as I could possibly find. I quickly discovered the 'IR Converted DSLR' options that were available. I decided that this was the route for me, and I sent my {now spare} 10D off for conversion.

I have to say that converting my 10D is one of the best things I have ever done. It has opened up a whole new world of photographic possibilities for me. Certainly conversion is not the best option for everyone. I would not recommend it for those who only have one camera! However, if you happen to have a spare body left after an upgrade, it's an excellent way to open up new possibilities and a whole new world when looking through the lens! I always have my IR camera with me when I go out shooting, but there are certain conditions that are 'prime' for IR (at least to me). I really love to shoot IR on bright sunny days when the sun is high in the sky. Big fluffy clouds in a deep blue sky are always an added bonus. I have a special fondness for high contrast B&W shots, and I have found that IR can add that extra punch to an already special shot when converted to black and white. Shots with a lot of green foliage in them are always great subject matter for IR as well. Sometimes you never know how a shot will turn out when you shoot it with infrared. It almost seems to see through some colors. I have a shot of an American flag that looks almost completely white, it's quite odd looking. For me the best thing about adding the IR camera to my arsenal was expanding the possibilities for every shot I see. I am constantly thinking "what would this shot look like in IR" when I am looking at a scene. Hopefully, that constant thought process will help improve my results. Ultimately that's what we all desire, to become better photographers.

Here are a few of my favorite IR images.

Here's a link to my IR Gallery

Jim Kramer's IR Galleries

Copyright Statement: All images and materials displayed and showcased here, are copyrighted and are the exclusive property of the artist. Images and material may not be reproduced or used in any way without the written consent of the artist.

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Jim know how much you enjoy and appreciate our visit to his part of the world and his Fantastic IR Work!

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Peter De Rycke

2007-09-16T05:38:00.001-06:00

For this Featured Showcase we have the privilege of a visit to Belgium and the stunning IR work of photographer and artist Peter De Rycke. Peter states: "I live in Oostende, Belgium (in the Flemish part) .. most pictures were taken in the low country (Polders) around my town, in the Polder region north of Bruges (where you find the flat landscape cut by ancient tree-lined canals) and on the beach (Oostende is a port-town situated along the Channel between Europe and Great-Britain." So, join me in a wonderful pictorial visit to Peter's homeland and a beautiful part of the world. Welcome Peter!

Bio: I am a 44 year old family man. I started my digital photography career back in 2002, and was immediately bitten by the virus. After one year with Fuji S602, I acquired my first DSLR in 2003. The Canon EOS 300D provided me with a much wider range of possibilities in photography. At the same time I skilled my knowledge of Photoshop to get more out of pictures.
In 2005, Pbase learnt me more about a branch of photography that was previously unknown to me: Infrared Photography. For this purpose I bought a second-hand Sony F717 with a Hoya R72 filter, completed with 2 ND filters. And, a new world was opening to me. Every season offered spectacular views, both in sky and on earth. Unreal and earthy pictures were the result.

The immediate future of my IR career has taken a 180° turn. After the breakdown of my beloved Sony, I had my 3-year old Canon 300D converted for dedicated infrared photography. After having taken some test-shots for finding the right custom white balance, I am up and running with this camera. It produces stunning results which are of course quite different than those from the Sony, but therefore not in the least less interesting. But it is a completely different brand. A big difference for me are the lenses that I can combine with the 300D. I use a 17-40L and a 70-200L, and the apertures and shutterspeeds which are as with a normal colour camera. There are only 3 points that I have to bear in mind aiming at a shot with the 300D.

I use manual focus, as the autofocus is not so accurate anymore.

I have to over expose 2-3 stops on most scenes.

I do not see the IR light through the viewfinder, so i have to judge the result (and exposure) via the display + histogram information.

But after some test-runs, I got quite used to these "drawbacks", and I already had 2-3 photo-shoots where I used the IR cam 100% of the time.

Some of my favorite IR Photos are:

You can visit Peter's IR galleries at:

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Peter know how much you enjoy and appreciate our visit to his part of the world and his Amazing IR Work!

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - David Twede

2007-08-26T19:12:00.001-06:00

This time I'm I sitting here wondering what I can write that is deserving of the privilege we all have here, getting to see and appreciate the awesome work of all of the Featured IR Photographer Showcases. The diversity, and variations of the work of these artists is something to behold. The talent just flows out of these Features. This one is no exception. Our privilege to view David Twede's work is something to be most thankful for. All of the artists have developed their own "IR Style". No one is "better" than the other, and we have seen false color, toned, and black and white, used so effectively that we just can't help being inspired and moved to go out and improve our own work. David shows us a masterful use of False Color in his images. Please join me in my appreciation of his work. Welcome David!

Bio: Since childhood, David Twede has been interested in the visual arts, finding inspiration and a connection between the distorted representations of post-impressionism & surrealism and his own night and daytime dreams. When he saw his first infrared photo a few years ago, he was intrigued by the altered nature it provided.

During his career, David, a scientist by day, has worked in imaging and experiments in his art using the knowledge obtained at work, adapting its perspective to infrared lighting. He believes that scientific research complements his artistic pursuits by encouraging new outlooks and incorporating new information into the creative process.

In 2005, David began his journey into photographic art when he visited his childhood home in Hawaii. He had acquired a Canon G1 second hand and learned that it was capable of capturing infrared images without modification. It wasn't until he photographed through an R72 filter there that he found a connection to his former life. It was a revelation how much more connected he felt to his memories through the infrared representation than the real one. It was as if the imprints of his childhood were left in the dreams he'd had there.

Presently, one motivating factor behind David's photography is the preservation or recording of landscapes that are disappearing due to over - and poor development of dwindling natural resources. A piece on his website in the Colorado album, entitled Vanishing Ranch is of a ranch in eastern Colorado Springs that was sold for development. He visited the site on an afternoon that quickly turned from clear to cloudy. The change heightened his sense of it's uncertain future and capturing it in infrared highlighted the storms sweeping the old houses and rock formations.

Most recently, David shoots with an infrared-converted Canon Pro1 and creates color infrared art with models, experimenting with people and settings under surreal lighting. His work is presently represented at Pine Creek Gallery in Old Colorado City, and is or has been displayed at a variety of public and commercial avenues, including the featured artist at the Colorado Springs airport and county library. His work has been the subject of articles in the Colorado Independent and Shutterbug Magazine.

You can visit his sites at:

Surreal Color

Surreal Models

Some of David's Favorite Photos:

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let David know how much you enjoy and appreciate his Amazing IR Work!

-=- Jerry -=-

Modify the Sony 717 for IR -- Open the Camera Shell

2007-08-25T18:00:00.000-06:00

This article shows you how to modify your Sony DSC-F717 camera to enable full infrared capability. The DSC-F717 (and some similar Cybershot cameras) can make nice infrared pictures using Nightshot mode, because in Nightshot mode, the internal IR blocking filter is moved out of the way. Unfortunately, the camera has been intentionally cripled by Sony in this mode so that you can only use full open aperture and shutter speeds below 1/60 sec. By permanently removing the internal IR blocking filter as described here, the camera can be used for infrared pictures in all modes, with no more limitations! You can use every camera mode, shutter speed, aperture, custom white balance, wide/tele converters etc. It's much easier to use than a dedicated IR-only DSLR! After the modification you can still use the camera for normal pictures, but for the best color (especially in sunny conditions) you will need an external IR blocking filter. The hot mirror replacement window and several types of infrared filters are available from http://www.digitalfilm.nl/ (only for EU/euro customers).

IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER: proceed at your own risk. I am not responsible for any errors in the described procedure, or any problem or damage that might occur if you follow (or don't follow ...) the descriptions. I do not provide any support for this modification, answer questions about technical problems, or repair damaged cameras. Performing this modification will probably void your warranty (but most 7x7 cameras are out of warranty now anyway). If you buy a used 7x7 camera, check if the CCD image sensor is working. The DSC-F7x7 (like many other cameras with the same Sony 5 MPixel CCD) can suffer from CCD failure. This shows as occasional colored bands on LCD and picture, severely distorted image a bit like 'dripping paint' or no image at all. Until September 30, 2008 Sony will repair this image sensor defect for free.

(click on Thumbnail Images for Full Size view)

Tools. The modification requires a small nr.0 cross head screw driver, a small 1-2 mm flat head screw driver and flat pliers or other tool to remove/insert the very delicate ribbon cables. Using an antistatic wrist wrap is recommended. Use a box with some small compartments to store the small screws that you will remove from the camera. Work in a clean, dust free environment with plenty of working space. Depending on your skills it may be a good idea to wear surgical gloves to prevent getting fingerprints on optical components. The procedure does not require any soldering, cutting etc. If you have some experience with similar delicate modifications it shouldn't be difficult.

Check your camera. Before you start with the modification, check that your camera is working correctly (autofocus, infinity focus, exposure etc.). Also check what happens when you switch your camera ON/OFF and when you switch the Nightshot mode ON/OFF (e.g. how fast the LCD on the back lights up, the 'click' you hear from the blocking filter etc.). You need to know this for after the modification, in order to check if everything is OK. There are many opportunities for making mistakes, and knowing what is 'normal behaviour' of your camera will help you solve some potential problems (e.g. when the hot mirror gets 'jammed' the NightShot switch sounds different).

Remove battery. When you have read the complete procedure and have all the tools and the optical window for replacing the internal hot mirror available it's time to start. Before you make any changes, FIRST remove the internal battery.

Remove body shell screws A1-3. Remove screws A1, A2 and A3 that keep the right part (seen from photographer) of the lens assembly case in place. This is the part of the shell with the USB connector. It is NOT necessary to remove the flash connector.

Remove screws B1-3. Remove screw B1. You can now take the right side of the lens assembly shell off. Be gentle because it is still connected internally with a small ribbon cable. There is no need to remove screws B2/B3 yet, I recommend to do this later.

Remove screw F1. This is how the camera looks with the right side lens assembly cover removed. the cover is still attached to the camera with a small ribbon cable for the USB port. Remove screw F1 that fixes the zoom/focus ring to the lens assembly .

Remove USB ribbon cable. Gently remove the USB ribbon cable from its connector. Use a special tool for removing or inserting these cables, they break easily!

Page 2

Modify the Sony 717 for IR -- Disconnect Ribbon Cables

2007-08-25T17:00:00.000-06:00

(click on Thumbnail Images for Full Size view)

Remove internal ribbon cables K-N. Now things get more delicate. Be careful that you don't touch sensitive electronic components or damage the fragile flex cables. First remove cables K and L from their connector by gently pulling them from their sockets (removing L is not strictly necessary, but for your first try I certainly recommend it). Note that the correct position for cable L is BEHIND the small metal part from the zoom ring assembly. For cables M and N you first have to unlock the sockets by flipping up the brown covers with a flat screw driver. The next pictures show this in more detail.

Unlock M/N flex connectors. Unlock connectors for cables M / N by flipping up the brown clamp with a small screwdriver. make sure that you do not scratch the ribbon cables with the screwdriver!

M/N connectors close view. This is how the connectors look like from above (or actually side ...). The right one has been unlocked and the left connector is still locked. After you have unlocked the connectors, gently remove the ribbon cables from their sockets.

Disconnect Q1/Q2 ribbon cables. Now you can access the tiny Q1/Q2 ribbon cables that are behind ribbon cable M. They are not locked, simply remove them by gently pulling in the right direction. the next picture shows the position of Q1/Q2 from the other side.

Remove Q1/Q2 ribbon cables. Looking down on the camera assembly from this side it's easier to see cables Q1 and Q2 in this picture both cables have been disconnected (red arrows point to the connectors).

Page 3

Back to Page 1

Modify the Sony 717 for IR -- Remove Lens Assembly

2007-08-25T16:00:00.000-06:00

(click on Thumbnail Images for Full Size view)

Remove screw C1 (and B2/3). In order to remove the lens assembly from the camera shell, remove screw C1. If you didn't already remove screws B2 and B3 earlier, do it now (it's easier to remove them now, because that way they keep the lens unit fixed firmly in the shell while you are removing the ribbon cables. If you have disconnected all ribbon cables the complete lens assembly can now be removed. It is not necessary to remove the zoom/focus ring, in fact it helps to protect the lens assembly while you are working on it. However, with the ring still connected it is more difficult to remove the lens assembly from the camera shell. If you decide to remove the zoom/focus ring, make sure you also have disconnected ribbon cable L.

Focus ring removed. This is how the camera looks with the right lens assembly cover removed, ribbon cables disconnected and zoom/focus ring removed. Note that the front lens is now exposed, so you have to be careful not to scratch it (that's why I prefer to keep the zoom ring on) .

Remove lens assembly. The lens assembly can now be removed (gently angle and pull out) from the camera shell. There is some plastic insulation material between the back of the lens assembly and the camera (ribbon cables). Make sure to put it back in the right place during assembly.

Empty camera shell. This is how the camera looks with the lens assembly removed you can now better see the location/direction of the ribbon cables (K and L blue, M, N, Q1, Q2 brown).

Lens assembly. Lens assembly viewed from the side (note tripod socket at the bottom) .

Page 4

Back to Page 2

Modify the Sony 717 for IR -- Open Hot Mirror Chamber

2007-08-25T15:00:00.000-06:00

(click on Thumbnail Images for Full Size view)

Remove CCD sensor PCB. At the back of the lens assembly is the PCB with the CCD image sensor. We have to remove this PCB to get at the hot mirror assembly. To remove the PCB first disconnect ribbon cable R, then remove screws D1 and D2. The next picture shows in close up how to remove the ribbon cable .

Disconnect ribbon cable R. To disconnect cable R first unlock the brown clamp by pulling in the direction of the ribbon (not by flipping the clamp like with M/N). Important: the CCD module is extremely sensitive to static electricity, do not touch the ribbon cable contacts or the electronic components. The picture shows how the CCD module will look with the clamp unlocked and cable disconnected. When you proceed, the inside of the optical system is exposed. Be careful to protect everything from dust particles, fingerprints etc.

CCD sensor PCB removed. The PCB with the CCD image sensor can now be removed. Store it in a safe place without touching the sensor (e.g. put it upside down on a small cup, so the sensor is not exposed).

Open hot mirror chamber. After removing the sensor PCB you can see the hot mirror (infrared blocking filter) depending on the direction of light and your view, it has an intense purple glow. To access the hot mirror we have to open the hot mirror chamber. You need to remove three small black, and three small silver screws (blue/red arrows). You also have to remove screw E1 that holds the small PCB for the motor that moves the hot mirror.

Remove back of hot mirror chamber. After removing the 7 screws, the back part of the hot mirror chamber can be removed. It is still connected to the main lens assembly by the power cable for the motor. The safest way to do this is to rest the lens assembly on the zoom/focus ring (lens cap). Gently lift the top (back part) of the hot mirror chamber. While doing this you have to manipulate the motor power cable in order to get more room to work. I recommend you leave the back part of the hot mirror assembly connected to the rest of the lens module.

Page 5

Back to Page 3

Modify the Sony 717 for IR -- Exchange Hot Mirror

2007-08-25T14:00:00.000-06:00

(click on Thumbnail Images for Full Size view)

Hot mirror stage. In this picture you can see the hot mirror on its small stage. It is moved by the small motor and some (half) cog wheels. Check how the cog wheels interact with the stage and the motor. This is very important for correct reassembly of hot mirror stage/cage after modification. In standard mode the hot mirror (cyan color) is in the optical path as in the left half of the picture. In Nightshot mode the hot mirror is moved to the left, out of the optical path as in right half of picture. Just in case you wondered: in Nightshot mode the camera firmware makes a focus correction for the missing window.

Unlock hot mirror. The hot mirror is the small piece of blueish glass inside the stage. It is held in place with a small angled metal clip that has to be removed first. The red arrow shows the position of the metal clip.

Remove hot mirror. View on the hot mirror stage with metal clip removed and hot mirror glass sliding out. Note the position of the motor cog wheel T, and slit P for the pin that moves the stage. Make sure you do not scratch the hot mirror and keep it in a safe place, just in case you want to re-install it again at a later time.

Replace hot mirror. This is what it's all about. Replacing the internal hot mirror that blocks infrared light. IMPORTANT: dust, scratches, fingerprints etc. on the new optical window are NOT allowed! The original hot mirror (left) is a small piece of optical glass, size 11 x 13 x 1.2 mm. I replaced it with a special optical window that transmits light from +/- 300 to 2000 nm, instead of just 400-700 nm for the standard Sony hot mirror. After modification the F717 will record images with light from +/- 350 - 1100 nm. The sensor/glass combination will not work outside of this range. This range includes most of the near-infrared spectrum.

It is VERY IMPORTANT to replace the hot mirror with another optical window with the same dimensions, and refraction index (thickness tolerance about 0.02 mm), otherwise the camera will no longer be able to focus, especially at infinity and wide angle. If you do not replace the original hot mirror with anything, the camera will only focus in Nightshot mode. This is because the optical window is part of the camera's optical system. You can try to make your own window from some piece of optical glass ground to specifications, but it will require a lot of trial and error because the window must be perfectly flat. If it is too thick, it will probably not fit in the stage (maximum thickness is about 1.3 mm). Note that microscope slides have no AR coating, using uncoated glass will cause extra reflections and hotspot problems. A suitable optical window with the exact required specifications and AR coating (and a choice of IR filters) is available from http://www.digitalfilm.nl/ (EU customers only). Theoretically one could replace the hot mirror with a suitable piece of IR filter glass to create an infrared-only 7x7 camera, like it is usually done with DSLR conversions. However, as far as I know there is no IR glass available with the right dimensions. If you are not interested in visible light photography you could add polyester or gelatin IR filterfoil to the stage (e.g. 87/87c filter, thickness usually 0.1 mm). This is cheaper than using an external IR glass filter, but you can no longer experiment with different IR filters (one of the many charms of this conversion).

Focus adjustment. If you use replacement glass with the wrong specifications it may not fit in the hot mirror stage, and you will probably have to adjust the focus. The focus adjustment screw (requires special tool) is below the blue tape. I recommend not to tamper with this, because there is no way you can adjust the focus while the camera is disassembled. You need to power on the camera to check focus, and the camera cannot power on when partly disassembled. The only option in this case is to assemble the camera and if the focus is wrong repeat the whole procedure and adjust the focus adjustment screw.

Page 6

Back to Page 4

Modify the Sony 717 for IR -- Reassembly

2007-08-25T13:00:00.000-06:00

(click on Thumbnail Images for Full Size view)

Pin and cog wheel. Pin P and cog wheel T in the part of the hot mirror chamber that is still connected to the main lens assembly. P and T move the hot mirror stage (the 'click' you hear when Nightshot mode is enabled or disabled). Study this very well, because the camera will only function if you assemble the stage with the correct positions of the cog wheel and hot mirror stage. If the position is wrong, you cannot close the hot mirror chamber, or you will lock the stage in the wrong position (making it impossible to move the hot mirror, which again makes it impossible for the camera to focus).

Reassembly. Now reassemble the camera in reverse order. Check the inside of the hot mirror chamber for any dust etc. before it is closed. If you have problems closing the chamber, the inside mechanism is probably in the wrong position. When mounting the CCD sensor PCB, make sure that you put the flex cable IN the connector and not BELOW the connector (between the connector and the PCB). This is not easy to see, you can lock the brown clamp even when the cable is inserted in the wrong place. If you make a mistake the CCD image sensor will not work (camera powers up with black LCD/viewfinder) and the sensor may possibly be damaged permanently. Check connector with inserted flex cable very carefully before you continue!

Modification complete! Insert the battery, power up the camera and check if everything (including hot mirror movement in Nightshot mode and focusing) is working normally. The DSC-F717 is now fully infrared-enabled and you can use all program modes for infrared photography. Instead of Nightshot's 1/60 sec. or longer exposure, you can now use any shutter speed for infrared photography. Even with the strongest infrared filters you can take pictures handheld, no tripod needed! Most camera functions will work as before the modification, including exposure and autofocus.

Using filters: Mount the filter of your choice on the lens to select the desired wavelength band. For normal photography with visible light (400-700 nm) use no filter at all or an external hot mirror filter. Standard white balance settings like sunny, cloudy etc. will be off unless you use an external hot mirror, but most of the time setting a custom white balance will solve this. For infrared (700-1100 nm) use an infrared pass filter like the Hoya or B+W filters. Theoretically you can take UV pictures as well, but filters that pass just UV light (below 400 nm) are expensive, and the 7x7 zoom is not the best choice for UV photography. Make sure you use a lens hood for infrared, because the camera will be more sensitive to internal reflections, hot spot etc. caused by infrared light. Use the highest JPEG quality (or TIFF if you can stand the write times); this will help when postprocessing. Because of diffraction effects, it is best to use apertures between f/2.0 and f/4.0. With smaller apertures, resolution will suffer. With infrared this is more of a problem than with visible light because of the longer wavelength.

IR Filter choice: If you are new to IR photography I recommend using the Hoya R72 or similar filter; it is high quality, relatively cheap and will work with almost every digital camera for IR photography. For pseudo-color IR photography with the (modified) 7x7, use a filter that transmits both infrared and some visible light, like Hoya R72, B+W 092, Wratten 89B. I recommend setting a custom white balance with the IR filter installed. If you don't do this there will be a strong color cast that can give problems with processing. You can also experiment with filters like 025 red, 099 infracolor, 403 dual band filter etc. However, with these special filters the 7x7 cannot provide a neutral in-camera whitebalance, making postprocessing difficult. Pseudo-color IR with the 7x7 is not easy because there is often very little color present to work with; check my pbase website for some examples. Filter Info

For black-and-white IR photography I prefer the stronger filters like B+W 093 and Hoya RM90 as they usually give a stronger IR effect and often more 'punch'. Of course one can also use an R72 filter and choose at a later time if B/W postprocessing is desired. I also tested some cheap infrared filters that are sold on Ebay. They work, but I found the results disappointing compared to similar Hoya filters. The cheaper filters transmit less light (1-3 stops difference) and the contrast is often lower, requiring more postprocessing. Your mileage may vary though ... other people seem to be happy with these filters.

External hot mirror: Because the internal hot mirror was removed, color accuracy and sharpness can suffer when working in visible light because of infrared contamination. This will show as a orange/brown coloration of green foliage and grass, a shift of the blue sky color to cyan and reddish/brown coloration on certain black metal parts or fine fabrics. This problem cannot be completely solved by adjusting the white balance. In my experience, an external hot mirror is only necessary for optimal color in bright sunlight (in summertime) or with other strong IR source (check my pbase site for more details). Hot Mirror Details

Using converters: With a standard 7x7 in Nightshot mode, using converters is not an option. With the modified 7x7 converters can be used, but attention is needed for best results. If you are using an infrared filter it will increase the distance between converter and lens, causing loss of corner sharpness and sometimes vignetting. Stopping down will sometimes cure the corner problems, but using small apertures is generally not recommended. Instead of the usual glass IR filters I now often use polyester IR filters, cut to size, for better corner performance (especially at wide apertures). When using optical converters corner resolution may also suffer because they are not well corrected for the longer IR wavelengths, causing the light to 'smear' in the corners of the image. High quality wide converters like Olympus WCON-07 and Raynox DCR-7900pro (effective focal length 27-30 mm) work very well; picture quality in infrared is much better than with the wideangle zoom setting of the Sony DSC-H9 that I tested earlier this year. Make sure that you don't stop down too much, just 1-2 stops down from full aperture usually gives the best results. Converters like Raynox DCR5000 (effective 19 mm equivalent!!) give a huge field of view (dynamic perspective), but corner sharpness is low even when stopped down; for some subjects the soft corners will be a problem.

My experience with tele converters in infrared is less favourable; even the high quality converters like Olympus TCON-17 give a big drop in resolution outside the center of the image. The major cause of this is probably chromatic abberation in the Sony Zeiss lens at tele settings, as the same problem appears at the tele end of the zoom (without any converter added). Still the modification helps, because you are now able to take IR pictures handheld in tele position, instead of the former situation where getting a blurred image due to camera shake was unavoidable.

My Final thoughts: why choose the DSC-F7x7 for infrared, and not a more recent digicam? The 7x7 has a relatively large imaging sensor, high quality f/2.0 Zeiss lens, and plenty of user control, while being relatively easy to use. For infrared, a big image sensor and bright lens help to keep noise levels down (without using aggressive noise reduction like in most recent digicams). Many 7x7 owners now probably have a DSLR too, which makes it even more attractive to dedicate the 7x7 for IR photography (and besides, it can still take normal pictures if necessary!). You may get better IR picture quality with an IR-converted DSLR, but the 7x7 is a flexible tool and is much easier to use compared to an IR-DSLR with its framing/focusing/exposure issues.

Return to Page 1

Back to Page 5

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - John McDonough

2007-08-05T18:35:00.000-06:00

In this chapter of the Featured IR Photographer Showcase we welcome the talents and creativity of Australian Photographer John McDonough. John makes the Sony DSC-F717 absolutely sing! And, we get to make a tour of parts of his home "in the land down under". As always it is a very valuable experience for all of us to see work like John's, to give us inspration, and to graphically show us just what is possible in IR. Super! Welcome John!

Bio: My IR images come from ‘down under’, Sydney Australia. Most are of our beautiful eastern coast line but some are of the ‘outback’ areas. Our climate and landscape supplies the perfect ingredients for IR – clouds, water and trees…

I started photography in the late seventies whilst at school. Back then it was all black & white that we developed and printed ourselves in the school darkroom. Since then and until the advent of digital I always maintained a darkroom at home. My trusty Olympus OM1 and Mamiya 645 never too far away. My love of a crisp, contrasty B/W image has never left.

At the age of 21 I joined the Fire Service, a job I have had for the last 20 years. Early on in my working life with low wages, a young family and mortgage, I often shot weddings to help pay the bills, ultimately this led me to stop enjoying my photography and for many years after that the only photos I took were for other people rather than for myself.

With the advent of digital and financial stability, I returned to the joy of taking photographs. My first digital was a Sony S70, at the time one of the first cameras over 3 megapixels. Since that time I have owned a number of cameras and currently shoot a Canon 20D with assorted lenses along with a Ricoh GRD (for street) and purchased just for IR, a Sony F717 used with a Hoya R72 and 8ND and 4ND to help control exposure. For me IR has the beauty of B/W but a starkness and mystical quality that appeals to me. It can make a common scene magical.

To date I have come the full circle and have recently started shooting film again with a Voigtlander rangefinder. Mostly street and candid. After years of instant gratification, I find the extra time spent hand developing a film then scanning the neg, gives each image a greater sense of worth and investment. I’ll never stop shooting digital but when I shoot film I feel a little more of me finds its way into each photograph. Also the extra dynamic range is still evident.

I recently returned from a trip across Australia with my 14 year old son who is also a keen photographer. We travelled over 6,000 km's in a campervan in only two weeks. The outback is breath taking in its isolation. Many times I thought how much this reminded me of images I had seen of Mars - red, flat and rocky. We travelled on roads that did not deviate for hours and never saw a soul. But the lack of habitation gave us a sense that these places had not changed for millions of years and on many occasions we marvelled at the ability of the aboriginal people to live and survive under such conditions for thousands of years.

I did shoot some IR, but not as much as I had hoped. I think that the wonderful contrasting colours of red land and blue sky demanded some colour work. Having said that the famous monolith Uluru (Ayers Rock), certainly looked striking in IR.

More of my photographs (and of the Darwin Trip) can be found at:

John's Galleries

There are two galleries. I suggest that you use the Slideshow Feature to peruse them. John's work is absolutely stunning!

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let John know how much you enjoy and appreciate his Beautiful IR Work!

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Joseph Levy

2007-07-15T18:54:00.000-06:00

For our next Featured IR Photographer Showcase we introduce an IR Shooter who hardly needs an introduction to anyone who started IR Photography and followed the Sony Talk Forum on dpreview. Joseph is quite well known for his publication of IR Post Processing steps to achieve the false color images with blue skies and white foliage. His pbase account must have recorded a Jillion hits by now from people like myself who started out shooting IR with the Sony Nightshot cameras, and then didn't know what to do in post processing. Joseph is probably closer to having achieved "Cult Status" than anyone I know from the IR Community. From day one, this site's "Useful Links" has included a link to his now famous step-by-step post processing suggestions. Joseph resides in the Carolinas, and has a number of Galleries available for your perusal and inspiration. Joseph's work is truly "World Class". Welcome Joseph!

Bio: My Name is Joe Levy. Photography has been my serious hobby for the last 6 years. I discovered infrared photography 4 years ago. I began shooting IR with a Sony DSC-F717, and am now using a Sony DSC - V1. These might seem like outdated cameras but they sure get the job done with IR. I really love infrared. I feel that the images have an other worldly feel. I shoot most of my IR photos around the coastal areas of South and North Carolina. One of my favorite areas for IR is at Brookgreen Gardens in Murrells Inlet SC. Its beautiful sculpture gardens and grand oaks make for great IR subjects. I also shoot with a Canon 20D and have had limited IR success with it, so I always keep my little Sony handy for any situation. I have also put together a work flow for IR images taken from the Sony 717/V1. The work flow changes the images from the pale green originals into the beautiful blue sky and white foliage images seen in my gallery.

Here are a few of my Infrared Images, Hope you enjoy!

Visit Joseph's many IR Galleries:

Joseph's IR Galleries

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Joseph know how much you enjoy and appreciate his ground breaking IR Work!

-=- Jerry -=-

The Most Significant Web Forum for the IR Community

2007-07-10T19:32:00.002-06:00

IR Buzz readers: This is an update to the original posting about Jules' IR Community Forum. He has launched a completely new forum, the 2.0 version of the Community. The "old" community forum is still up and available, and it contains the accumulated wisdom up to the point the Jules transitioned to the new forum. That is why I still want to have the links, etc. in this original Posting. Here is a link to the new and improved forum.

Infrared Photography Community 2.0

The original posting text follows, and the comments and ideas are valid for the 2.0 Community as well.

IR Shooters Rejoice! Jules Alexander has taken on the huge and demanding task of creating a Discussion Forum dedicated entirely to Infrared Photography.... "The Infrared Photography Community". You can stop reading now and go check it out for yourselves, just remember to thank Jules for undertaking this time consuming task.

Jules, you have created a "time monster", demanding much of your personal time, but I am SO GLAD you decided to do it. Your forum is going to be a great and popular success for every IR Shooter on the planet.

The Infrared Photography Community/

The forum is in a typical "Opening Period" of growth, experimentation, and change right now. Jules has been very open to suggestions for improvements, and he has already made some small changes which really streamline the whole reader experience. I expect it to just get better and better, as Jules finds his way with this project. He certainly starts off with a good base from which to build.

Here are some of the sections that can't help but interest you:

IR Cafe and Bar

A general gathering place for getting to know other IR Shooters.

Newbies Launch Pad

You don't have to know anything about IR to join and get started shooting with the best of 'em!

General Gear Talk

Gives you a place to ask the obvious questions about photography gear and how to "choose and use" it.

And, as of this writing 10 - Count 'em, 10 different sections to display your finished IR work for all of the other Forum readers to view and gain inspiration from. I'm not going to link to them here, as you can easily find out what's available to you when you peruse the Forum.

So, the IR Buzz Rating is an un-qualified 10 Invisible Light Waves (out of 10 possible waves). Be sure to register and participate fully. Hey, even if you are a confirmed "Lurker", you will gather great amounts of knowledge and experience here for your own IR Experience.

Go check it out!

-=- Jerry -=-
.

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Vernes Go

2007-07-01T18:51:00.000-06:00

In this Featured IR Photographer Showcase we introduce a Nikon D70 shooter from Manila the Philippines who has at his disposal, a wonderful selection of locations that are just perfectly tailored for the IR Shooter. Here, Vernes Go displays his talents, creativity, and dedication to capture the scenes in his part of the world. Stunning work! Welcome Vernes!

Bio: In my younger days, I was never a fan of photography. During family gatherings, my brother would often ask me to take photos, and I always hated it. I only got my first digital point and shoot camera, merely because I was a gadget freak. I only used it during family vacations, events and gatherings.

My passion for photography started last 2005 when I had the opportunity to try a friend’s Nikon D70. It was my first time to try a Digital SLR. I was really amazed with the photographs it produced, and with the performance of the camera. Compared to my Point and Shoot Camera, It focused fast and produced sharper images. I was really dumbfounded and soon enough, decided to get one for my own. It was August 2005 when I purchased my first DSLR, a Nikon D70s. Little did I know that this was the start with my obsession, and journey with photography.

Through my journey, I chanced upon some Infrared Photographs online. I was amazed with how the photographs looked like, since they looked so bizarre and different. I was inspired, and decided to try it out. I got myself a Hoya R72 IR filter, without having any idea how to use it. Knowing little about digital infrared photography and filters, I had a hard time using it at first. But with the help of some friends online, I finally got a hang of it. From that point on, there was no stopping me from taking IR photographs.

Living in Manila, Philippines, I don’t find it difficult looking for a location to shoot in Infrared. Being a tropical country, green trees and fields are very abundant. I try to go to remote locations and look for isolated trees or other subjects that would stand out when shot in IR.

Every chance I have, I take Infrared Photos of scenes I believe would look perfect when shot in IR. Through much dedication and practice, I finally found my style in Infrared Photography. I experimented further on different post processing techniques for IR, and soon enough, I found a post processing style wherein I’m comfortable with.

The best thing about Infrared Photography is that I am totally in control of my photographs. My goal is to make them look as surreal as possible. I believe that there are endless possibilities when it comes to Infrared photography. And I am making it my personal goal to explore each and every one that I can think of.

Here are a few of my favorite IR images:

And here's a Link to Vernes' Gallery.

Vernes Go's Gallery

Copyright Statement: All images and materials displayed and showcased here, are copyrighted and are the exclusive property of the artist. Images and material may not be reproduced or used in any way without the written consent of the artist.

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Vernes know how much you enjoy and appreciate his Stunning IR Work!

-=- Jerry -=-

Review: Niek Haak Reviews the Sony DSC-H9 - Part 3

2007-06-30T15:51:00.000-06:00

Niek Haak contributes the final part of his expert review series of the new Sony DSC-H9 digital camera to the IR Buzz. Here he provides the results from his extensive experience with earlier Sony Nightshot equipped models, and makes comparisons to the H9 from his first hand testing.

Guest Author -- Niek Haak -- Part Three:

In Part Two we found that the H9 can take very nice infrared pictures if you get the exposure right, work in good lighting conditions, and if possible, stay away from the wide angle setting. In this part we look at color-infrared photography, the pros and cons of 'IR-modding', and my verdict on H9 infrared image quality compared to other cameras.

Color-Infrared. I am not a fan of color-infrared photography in general and usually prefer black-and-white or toned IR images. But sometimes, with the right camera and artist, (pseudo-) color IR can give very expressive and highly original results. Check out the work of Jesus Valenciano featured here on this site.

How does the H9 perform for color-infrared photography? My H9 pictures in Nightshot mode came out almost monochrome with every IR filter that I tested, including the 89B/R72 filters that normally produce slightly colored IR images with many other cameras. There is far less color in the H9 files than with the same filters on the DSC-F7x7s, probably a result of the processing that Sony uses in H9 Nightshot mode. Using other camera settings is not a solution. Normal camera modes using an infrared filter require very long exposure times which can result in poor image quality. The 'in-between' setting of the Nightshot switch produces a shadow in the lower part of the frame. Also, when a filter like the Hoya R72 is used with the 'in-between' setting, the red/purple color that results is outside the white balance range of the DSC-H9. Some older Cybershot cameras can correctly white balance the scene when using IR filters which helps in postprocessing. The DSC-V3 and DSC-F828 also have RAW format for better color postprocessing. With the H9 we only have a fixed quality JPEG mode. The strongly colored IR JPEGs from the H9 with their unpredictable artifacts are not a good basis for color infrared postprocessing. Because of these limitations my opinion is that the H9 is not a good choice for color-infrared photography.

IR modding. We previously mentioned the 'in-between' setting of the Nightshot switch. This moves the internal hot mirror partly out of the way without switching to official 'Nightshot mode' with its shutter speed and aperture limitations. Because this setting requires fiddling with the switch before every picture, and because there remains a shadow in the picture I don't consider it an attractive option for everyday use. Modding previous Cybershot models, the hot mirror had to be replaced with a special glass window (with critical dimensions), otherwise the camera would no longer focus at infinity. The in-between setting shows that this is not necessary with the H9. Full-IR modification of the H9 requires nothing more than insulating the contact that switches the camera into Nightshot mode when the hot mirror is moved. Check postings on the Sony Talk Forum on DPReview.com for details about how to do this. After this modification the Nightshot switch will only move the hot mirror out of the way, nothing else. Setting the camera to BW or Sepia mode makes it easier to judge the results on the LCD display and saves postprocessing time if you want BW infrared pictures. Because the hot mirror is not permanently removed from the camera, it still works perfectly for normal Color photography - unlike older modded Cybershot cameras that will need a relatively expensive external hot mirror to restore Normal Color photography capabilities.

To mod or not to mod? At first glance this makes the H9 the ideal camera for those who want it all: both normal photography with the hot mirror in place and full infrared photography (without limitations!) in Nightshot mode all in one relatively small camera. The question becomes, is this IR modification worth the warranty risk? Maybe some US suppliers will start offering modified H9 camera's including warranty, so anyone can decide for themselves if it is worth the extra cost. A modded H9 camera will save on accessories because only one standard IR filter (instead of special IR filter or ND filters) is all that is needed for IR photography. Modding the H9 will solve some of the problems with IR photography that were discussed in Part One and Two. With the modification we get rid of the Nightshot limitations on Shutter Speed and Aperture. Just one IR filter is all you need to handle both normal and infrared photography. The other H9 problems remain though. Noise, and smudging artifacts will still occur (just like with visible light). The problems with CA and corner sharpness at wide angle remain too, and stopping down the lens will not help much. Because of the longer wavelength of IR light, diffraction effects will kick in quickly when stopping down and reduce overall sharpness. With my modified DSC-F717 when using infrared light, I get the best image quality at f/2.8-3.5. From f/4.0 and certainly at f/5.6 diffraction will visibly reduce sharpness (but sometimes this is an acceptable tradeoff because of DOF, field curvature or using a converter). The H9 with its much smaller chip will probably be diffraction-limited with IR light even near full aperture.

DSC-H9 compared to previous Cybershot models. The Nightshot mode of the H9 is more restrictrive than previous Sony models, and build quality and ergonomics are a step down IMHO. On the other side the big and bright LCD, Steadyshot, fast autofocus and huge zoom range are a plus. We already noted in Part Two that there are some problems with image quality in general (especially with less than favourable conditions) and the optical quality of the lens. Previous Cybershot models like the DSC-F7x7s have good and reliable image quality in infrared. They have some visible noise but it is usually not a huge problem, as it is similar to grain in BW films and is totally different from the smearing that often pops up in H9 images. For general image quality, I definitely prefer the older Cybershot cameras. When looking at lens quality the comparison is more difficult. The H9 has an attractive zoom range and no hotspot. The biggest problem is the soft corners at wideangle settings (this occurs both with visible and IR light). Older Cybershot models have relatively soft corners too at wideangle in Nightshot mode (as far I as know) or do not have a real wideangle at all. A DSC-F7x7 with a high quality wide converter like the Olympus WCON-07 (effective focal length 28 mm) offers better image quality than the H9, especially in the corners of the frame. However, this only works well with an IR-modified 7x7 and it adds extra bulk and cost. In the tele range the H9 has relatively good optical quality and with the additional Steadyshot it will usually beat the older Cybershot models for IR pictures. However, I think most IR shooters will use wideangle far more often than the tele range, so optical qualities at wideangle are more useful to the average IR shooter. All in all, if you already have an older Cybershot camera with Nightshot, the H9 may have some advantages but better image quality is not one of them.

Other IR-digicam options. If you want a new digicam that can handle both visible and IR photography and don't require the absolute best image quality, the H9 is an excellent choice. It is one of the few digicams on the market that can take handheld IR pictures, it packs many advanced options in a small package, and IR photography is easy when you know and accept it's limitations. The H9 gets even more attractive for IR if you dare to perform the Nighshot switch modification.

Too bad that this camera has some serious flaws ... If you want good, reliable image quality in infrared, high build quality and good ergonomics, an older (used) Cybershot digicam like the DSC-F7x7s are probably a better choice. The 707 ( EUR 100-200 on Ebay) provides a relatively cheap entry into the world of IR photography. The 717 (EUR 150-300) adds better storage capacity, higher speed and some options that can be important if you remove the internal hot mirror. Even including IR modification the cost of these older models is in the same price range as a new H9 while being easier to use for IR shooting. Used DSC-F828 or DSC-V3 are also good choices for IR but they are still relatively expensive. Other recent digicams like some Fuji models can take more-or-less handheld IR pictures too, but I don't have experience with them. They have a less noisy image sensor and usually higher quality optics than the H9, so they might be worth a look. In the US there is also the Fuji IS-1, but it is far more expensive than the H9. If you don't object to using a tripod there are other current digicams that will give better IR image quality than the H9. For color-IR photography, or when you want the very best image quality in BW-infrared, an IR-dedicated DSLR with IR-friendly optics is the best choice. However cost, weight, and ease of use with the DSLRs are issues that should not be overlooked.

My H9 went back to the supplier because of uneven left/right sharpness. I decided not to take my chances with a new H9 as long as Sony decides not to fix some of the known problems, especially the noise/smearing issue. Until then, I will continue using my DSC-F717 for IR photography.

IR Test Gallery

If Sony listens I will be back with another look at the H9, but don't hold your breath ...

Home

Part One

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Kort Kramer

2007-06-05T15:00:00.000-06:00

In this Featured IR Photographer Showcase we welcome the talents and creativity of Kort Kramer. Kort shows us just how successful you can be in Digital IR using the smaller cameras, both modded for IR and un-modded. His work proves that there is no requirement for expensive modded DSLRs and lenses to get stunning images. Good Stuff! Welcome Kort!

Bio: My interest in photography had to start with my father. He was always taking photos for picture albums and family slide shows. Being in the Air Force, he (and the rest of us) got to travel to some exotic and photogenic locations over the years. Dad let me use his old 35mm TopCon when I took photography classes in high school and then later in college (the University of Florida), where I first used infrared film. Upon graduation, I worked as a newspaper photographer for a short time before moving on to other things. Fast forward about 10 years to the advent of consumer grade digital cameras. My first was an Olympus C-3030wz and I've been re-hooked on photography ever since. I first started experimenting with digital IR after happening across an image online. I never forgot the appeal of dark skies and glowing vegetation, and wanted to try it out for myself. My first foray was to get a Hoya R72 for my Olympus C-8080wz and while it is not the easiest camera to get a decent image from, it was a lot more rewarding than working with 35mm IR film had been. I recently purchased a Sony DSC-P200 with the hot mirror removed and replaced with a Wratten 87 filter. Being able to shoot IR handheld has been such a revelation and I have not stopped snapping since!

Here are a few of Kort's images.

And here's a Link to Kort's Gallery.

Kort's IR Gallery

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Kort know how much you enjoy and appreciate his Fantastic IR Work!

-=- Jerry -=-

Review: Niek Haak Reviews the Sony DSC-H9 - Part 2

2007-06-04T22:06:00.000-06:00

Niek Haak contributes a continuation of his expert review of the new Sony DSC-H9 digital camera to the IR Buzz. Here he provides an emphasis on it's implementation of the Sony Nightshot feature. In this article, Niek builds on his excellent discussion of the issues, features, and pros and cons the H9 owner who wants to shoot IR will encounter. Be sure that you don't miss Part Three, do not miss any of this must-have information about the H9.

Guest Author -- Niek Haak

Part Two:

In part One we looked at the DSC-H9 Nightshot mode, options for infrared photography and for attaching filters. In this part we will check out image quality for infrared photography. With visible light the H9 can take excellent pictures. If conditions are good pictures are usually better (more details, less noise) than those from my DSC-F717. But by now most of you have probably heard about image quality problems with the H9. The major issues are unpredictable noise/smearing artifacts when conditions are less favourable (especially in low contrast/low detail areas), bad corner sharpness in wide angle mode, and above average chromatic abberation. These issues are present both with normal and infrared photography (CA usually translates into more corner softness for IR). I didn't notice any problems with autofocus or exposure metering with infrared light, it simply works, so no need for further comments (it is much easier than using a DSLR for infrared!).

Getting the exposure right. In Nightshot mode the H9 uses maximum aperture and a fixed 1/30 sec shutter speed. This is even more restrictive than with previous Cybershot models and the variable aperture of the lens (f/2.7-f/4.5) makes it more difficult to get the exposure right by adding ND filters. Too much light gives blown highlights. With insufficient light image quality suffers, probably because the H9 boosts the ISO value then. The H9 does not report ISO in the EXIF in Nightshot mode, so it is difficult to check what is really going on. In my first tests I used a Cokin filter holder with 89B + ND4 + ND8 filters, a combination that works well with other Cybershot cameras in Nightshot mode (the 89B is very similar to Hoya R72). My first results were very disappointing: lots of noise with smearing artifacts, bad contrast and totally unacceptable corner sharpness. Even on a 4x6 inch print the problems were clearly visible. In hindsight, using this filter stack was not a good start. The H9 lens has a smaller aperture compared to the DSC-F7x7 cameras, so exposure was probably insufficient. Using just the 89B and ND8 filters did not work, because pictures were overexposed. As I mentioned in Part One, there is no perfect solution for stacking IR+ND filters on the H9, so getting the exposure right is difficult. But with the small H9 sensor and its potential noise problems, getting it right is very imporant!

IR filter choices. I nearly gave up on the H9 for infrared, but before giving up I decided to check vignetting issues by holding a 58 mm infrared filter in front of the lens in Nightshot mode. To my surprise, using just a Hoya RM90 (a relatively strong IR filter), I got a very nice infrared image on the LCD display! The histogram shows that the RM90 gives almost perfect exposure in normal sunlight. No ND filters are necessary, so it is possible to hold just the Hoya RM90 filter in front of the lens and shoot in infrared. The noise problems are strongly reduced this way and there is no vignetting. So I continued testing mostly with the RM90. For more shooting comfort the Pemaraal Galileo II tube (not available yet) seems like it will be an excellent choice. There are probably easier ways to mount a 52 or 58 mm IR filter in front of the lens, if changing filters (or adding a converter) is not necessary. The bright 3 inch LCD of the H9 makes infrared shooting a joy. It is easier than ever to see the scene in IR. Without sunlight the RM90 would be too dark (increasing noise), but most IR shooting happens with sunlight anyway. A B+W 403 dual band filter (similar to XDP filter sold in the US) works OK too but usually the results with the RM90 had more punch. I also tested some cheap IR filters that are available on Ebay: the '950 nm filter' (similar in transmission curve to RM90) was too dark for the H9. It transmits 2-3 stops less infrared light than the RM90. The '850 nm filter' (similar to 87c filter) gives overexposure in sunny conditions (it needs an additional ND2-ND4), but would probably work fine when there is no direct sunlight. Adding one ND2/4 filter on top of the 850 nm filter may cause some vignetting at maximum wide angle (I didn't check this).

Lens quality. With the exposure/filter problem solved, we can continue testing and check lens quality for IR photography. A pleasant surprise is that the H9 (at least with the RM90 or similar filters) has no 'hotspot' like most other cameras in infrared, making processing very easy. The Nightshot images are nearly monochrome, and just 'auto levels' is enough to get a pleasing infrared image (check the examples on my website). The lens has relatively strong light falloff towards the corners in wide angle mode but this can be easily corrected in postprocessing if required. The soft corners problem at wide angle remains though. Any zoom setting below about 50 mm equivalent has problems with sharpness outside the center of the image, and with IR photography it is even worse than with visible light. Of course it doesn't help that the camera uses full aperture in Nightshot mode. For subjects where corner sharpness is critical the wide angle setting should be avoided. Check the examples on my website to judge for yourself!. Lens quality for visual and IR photography improves in the normal range and from about 2x zoom it is very good (better than my DSC-F717). Adding the benefit of the H9 image stabilizer, it is clear that for infrared photography at longer zoom lengths, the H9 is often a better choice than other digicams. After testing, my camera went back to Sony because of uneven sharpness across the frame, an issue that some other users have experienced as well. I will wait with my final verdict on H9 image quality until I have tested another H9 camera.

In Part Three, I will look more closely at options for pseudo-color infrared photography, and compare infrared results from the H9 with those from other digicams. Is the H9 a good choice for IR shooters, or is it better to buy a used Cybershot on Ebay? We will also check if H9 IR results can be improved by 'IR-modding': removing the blocking filter to enable IR photography in normal camera modes.

Here's a sample H9 IR image from the Test Gallery.

IR Test Gallery

Part Three

Home

Contribute articles about Infrared Photography

2007-06-03T19:38:00.000-06:00

I have had a few people approach me about the possibility of contributing Articles to the IR Buzz, articles related specifically to Infrared Photography. The inquiries I received were initially un-solicited, but after some consideration on my part, I decided I really like the idea.

No one person is the complete authority on IR Photography, and I certainly do not fill that bill. So it seems only logical to allow You, the experienced IR Shooter to offer the benefit of your experience and knowledge to the IR Community.

The highly successful, and widely read series of contributions by Niek Haak on his experience with the new Sony DSC-H9 camera has really convienced me that Reader Contributions will be a valuable resource for us all. That of coarse is what the IR Buzz is all about, providing quality information for everyone interested in Infrared Photography.

So, if you are feeling creative, compose a Guest Article and email your draft to me. The article can be about anything that has a useful relation to IR Photography. Maybe, you'd even like to detail the failures that lead to your success. Any subject at all that makes a contribution to the readers of this site will be given serious consideration. I will assist you by providing suggestions for edits, but I prefer to publish your work un-altered. I will certainly not change any facts you provide, but I know all too well, that in my own writings, I can frequently use a gentle nudge in the proper use of the English language.

Which brings up one more point, English is the language of this site, primarily because it is the only language that I am capable of speaking. I'm not too proud of myself compared to other readers here who speak multiple languages. I'm in awe of you to say the least. Heck, I barely speak a good Texan, much less proper English! ;^)

A good example of what I am saying, is that Niek's native language is Dutch. He has a very good command of English, and I am just amazed at anyone who does so well in a language not their own. Niek and I worked together, with a small amount of edit suggestions from me, all of which he approved, otherwise, I would not change a word.

I of course reserve the right to choose what I will publish here. I hope that rejections will be few, but ultimately I have to keep things on track on this site.

So, If you have something to say, send me your contributions and give everyone the benefit of your knowledge and experience.

The following Copyright Notice will appear on all contributed articles.

My email policy: Email me at infraredbuzz at gmail dot com. In order for me to keep valid email messages and dispense with spam you MUST include this "secret handshake" in the subject line. "scooter" (my cat's name). So for example: your subject line would look something like this "scooter hey Jerry I have IR info for you". If I don't see that word somewhere in the subject line, into the cosmic bit bucket goes the email, no exceptions (unless I happen to recognize your email addy). Thanks for your understanding. I expect a lot of unfamiliar email traffic.

Thanks,

-=- Jerry -=-

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Jesus Valenciano

2007-04-30T18:40:00.000-06:00

For this Featured Photographer Showcase we move off in a different direction. IR Photography offers so much creative freedom for the artist, and there are many directions that can be taken in Post Processing after the image has been captured. The artist is truly set free to use imagination and creativity to it's fullest. We are not limited to the expectations of the more traditional Visible Color Photography world. Some of us choose to target our IR work to Black and White, or some of the many monochromatic tones. Some artists like Jesus choose to take the craft to the ethereal and dreamy world of false colors, still retaining the look and feel of images captured in Infrared. Enjoy and marvel at the stunning work Jesus has produced, and relax and visit places and scenes that he finds in his native Spain and Europe. Welcome Jesus.

Bio: Hi! I am relatively new to photography. I had 2 SLRs when I was in the university but I will say I never took this seriously enough to be on the serious amateur league.

I rediscovered the photography in my late thirties. My first digital camera was a Sony F505 but I only started to take it serious 3 years ago with a Sony F828. Since the very beginning I was hooked by the IR possibilities of the camera and I converted the F828 for full IR capabilities last year.

I am now using a Sony R1 for colour and the F828 for the IR work, only problem is the weight and space when we go holidays, but compared to 2 DSRLs + lenses would be worst.... and that my wife and children are not very happy about we stop for 20 minutes each time I see a scene that I like. :-)

I live in Madrid, Spain, and a significant part of my photography is from Madrid area but you will also find pictures from other areas of Spain and Europe.

I am a fan of coloured IR. Since I started with IR I have put most of the work to build techniques and workflows for colouring IRs from the F828.

I am actually using different techniques that combine filters (ND400, red or X-nite filters instead of normal IR Hoya-RM72), shooting RAW and post-processing.

What I love from IR photography is that since there is not a “real world” to match, I feel I have all the freedom in IR to play and trick colours and create dreamy atmospheres.

And now I leave you with my work. I hope you enjoyed.

Jesus

And here's a Link to Jesus' Gallery.

Gallery with my preferred IRs:

Copyright Statement: All Images and materials displayed and showcased here, are copyrighted and are the exclusive property of the artist. Images and material may not be reproduced or used in any way without the written consent of the artist.

Please Comment Freely to this Post.

Let Jesus know how much you enjoy and appreciate his Fantastic IR Work!

-=- Jerry -=-

Review: Niek Haak Reviews The Sony DSC-H9 - Part 1

2007-04-29T14:25:00.000-06:00

Niek Haak contributes an expert review of the new Sony DSC-H9 digital camera, with emphasis on it's implementation of the Sony Nightshot feature. This much anticipated camera, and it's abilities to produce Infrared Images is still little understood by the new owner community. Niek takes us thru the specific details and issues that are confronting the owners who are attempting IR with this camera. In Part One, of a Three Part series. Niek lays some of the groundwork, making some comparisons to his experience shooting IR with the Sony DSC-F717. Be sure to read Part Two and Three as Niek continues to do more experimentation, and produce more example images.

Guest Author -- Niek Haak

Part One :

Five years ago Sony started offering a Nightshot mode on certain Cybershot digicams. In Nightshot mode the internal IR blocking filter is temporarily moved aside, out of the light path to the sensor, enabling handheld infrared photography with an off-the-shelf digital camera. Nightshot mode, despite its limitations, made these Cybershot models very popular among IR photographers. The last Sony digicams to offer this mode, the DSC-F828 and DSC-V3, disappeared from the market some time ago.

Now there is a new Nightshot kid on the block, the DSC-H9. Does it offer the same opportunities for infrared photography? The DSC-H9 is quite a change from the previous models with Nightshot. It has a bigger zoom range, image stabilizer, better/faster autofocus, big and bright flip LCD, smaller overall size and ... a much smaller image sensor.

I am currently using a DSC-F717 for my IR photography; last year I removed the internal blocking filter to bypass the Nighshot limitations. This IR modification makes the 717 a great IR digicam, but there is always room for improvement. The lack of true wide angle zoom on the 7x7s requires the use of a bulky converter to get to 28 mm (the newer 828 and V3 include the 28 mm zoom setting), and the LCD is small and has its limitations. On paper the DSC-H9 looks great: it has a wide angle zoom (at 31 mm a bit less than I would like, but better than the 38 mm minimum on the DSC-F707/717) and packs a lot of punch into a small package.

Nightshot Limitations With the DSC-H9 in Nightshot mode, the only setting one can adjust is the amount of megapixels that are captured; the rest seems to be fully automatic. I did most of my testing in 5 MP instead of 8 MP mode (easier to compare results with my Sony 717, and maybe better image quality?). I set the camera at 80 or 100 ISO before testing, but I'm not sure yet if it retains that setting in Nightshot mode. Nightshot always works with full open aperture (variable from f/2.7 to f/4.5) and a maximum 1/30 sec shutter speed. The slow shutter speed is less a problem because the image stabilizer (Steadyshot) helps, at least for static scenes like landscapes. Although it is not completely reliable at these shutter speeds, I got acceptable images even at full 465 mm zoom in Nightshot mode.

This is a huge improvement compared to older Cybershot models, where anything above 50 mm equivalent or so in Nightshot mode requires a tripod. Of course a modded DSC-F717 is better, but that is not an off-the-shelf option. The other limitation is that - like previous Nightshot incarnations - in normal daylight, ND filters are required to prevent overexposure at 1/30 sec. (check Jerry's excellent article about Nightshot mode in the Beginner’s Section).

The Nightshot Switch There is a way to bypass the Nightshot limitations, by using an 'in-between' setting for the Nightshot switch. This removes the blocking filter with the camera still in the mode as set with the mode dial. Just a slight touch will switch back to full Nightshot mode or normal camera mode: one has to fiddle with the switch before every picture. Also, there is a fuzzy black border in the lower part of the image when using this trick. The border is caused by the frame of the IR blocking filter that is not yet completely out of the optical path. With this setting, just looking at the LCD shows that the camera uses both infrared and normal light. With the blocking filter removed in normal mode I could not set the white balance (Aperture priority mode and R72 filter); the red/purple tint seems to be outside the possible WB range. One can choose a black-and-white mode for BW IR pictures directly out of the camera, but for experimenting with color infrared the H9 does not look promising.

Using filters For best results, an infrared filter is necessary (plus ND filters when using Nightshot mode). We run into some trouble here ... There is no official way to mount filters on the H9, except for the non-standard 74 mm filter thread on the Sony lens adapter. Obviously, there are no 74 mm infrared filters on the market. Stepdown rings that mount on the Sony lens adapter are available, but only the 72 mm size seems safe for mounting a filter. Pemaraal is working on a telescoping adapter that should work with smaller filters; it looks very nice but is not yet available.

When hand holding one filter directly in front of the H9 lens, 58 mm filter size is OK: even at maximum wide angle setting there is no vignetting, as long as you keep your fingers in the right position ;-) I started experimenting with a Cokin P filter holder with resin filters; it works, but it is bulky compared to the H9. Mounting a stack of round filters (infrared + ND4 + ND8, as with previous Nightshot models) is not an easy solution either. Even with the new Pemaraal adapter, three 58 mm filters would give strong vignetting at wide angle, and a stack of bigger filters would be heavy and expensive. So, for the infrared filter some kind of compromise or workaround will be necessary.

Conclusion: There are some problems, but overall the H9 looks promising.

In Part 2 we take a closer look at: suitable infrared filters, required Post Processing, and image quality issues for infrared photography (compared to other options like the older DSC-F717).

Here is one of my early results (using very little image processing).

You can find some IR examples in my DSC-H9 test gallery.

H9 IR Test Gallery

Copyright Statement: All images and written materials published in this Guest Article Contribution are copyrighted and are the exclusive property of the author. Images and material may not be reproduced or used in any way without the written consent of the author.

Part Two

Home

Another Update on the Sony H9 and Nightshot

2007-04-28T07:47:00.000-06:00

I've been following this camera here since it was only a rumor. At the time it looked like Sony was also going to include their Nightshot feature, which, as many of you know is a very capable tool for daytime IR shooting. I contacted Sony thru their Sony Style web site, and attempted to ask for some details about this implementation of Nightshot. I got a real nice form letter response, basically saying they knew nothing, and pointing me to someone in the organization who might know. An email to that addy, and the result was the usual "Sony Ignore". Oh well, I pretty much got what I expected. So we waited.

The rumors turned out to be true, and now Sony is shipping the H9. People are starting to receive their cameras, and the Sony forums are "buzzing". Not a lot of talk yet about Nightshot, as most new owners don't really know what it is. I was able to ask a few questions of a new owner on one of the forums. She was kind enough to flip the switch to Nightshot and tell me what she sees. I'm sad to report, that our hopes that Sony would open up Shutter Speed and Aperture in Nightshot on this camera are apparently not going to be fuffilled.

It looks like 1/30 sec. and a wide open Aperture are the settings for the H9, just as they are on the DSC-F828, DSC-V1, and DCS-V3 models. While, these crippled settings are still very useful for Daylight IR, our hopes for better exposures with some better settings are just not going to happen.

I don't want this report to be "down" on the New H9. This camera has many nice features that will make it a very capable IR choice. Owners of the 828, V1, and V3 have been super successful with IR, and there is no reason that this won't be the case with the H9.

It sure would have been nice to shoot handheld IR at faster shutter speeds.

As soon as the H9 hits the retail stores I will get my hands on one and confirm what I'm being told in the Forums.

Here's a link to my earlier writings about the H9.

Original Posts about the Sony H9

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

Apply a final Sharpen

2007-04-06T21:30:00.000-06:00

Most images can benefit from a small amount of Sharpening to give them that final Pop. Be sure that you don't over-do the sharpening and cause jpg artifacts, etc.
Select Filter, Sharpen, unSharp Mask

unSharp Mask settings that I like to apply to the images from my camera are usually around 50 .4 0. You settings can and will vary depending on your camera and each individual image.

The Finished Product.

Return to "Simplified" Tutorial

Optional Brightness and Contrast Adjustment

2007-04-06T21:25:00.000-06:00

This step is completely Optional, but one I like to apply. The change is subtle.
Select Image, Adjustments, Brightness/Contrast

Set the Brightness to a small negative number (5-10).
Set the Contrast to a small positive number (5-10).
Preview the image before you accept the change.

Return to "Simplified" Tutorial

Black and White Conversion using Virtual Photographer

2007-04-06T21:20:00.000-06:00

Select Filter, OptikVerve Labs, Virtual Photographer

The plugin opens.

Cleck the On/Off Box and leave the Original Radio Button selected.

Check the B/W Box, Leave Normal selected.

You can play with the Slider under the Normal Box. I did not make any change this time.

Click on the Process Button. Virtual photographer will convert the image based on your selections. There are a great number of other highly adjustable tones and changes available at the click of a mouse in this plugin. I advise you to take some time to explore this plugin.

Return to "Simplified" Tutorial

Adjust Levels

2007-04-06T21:15:00.000-06:00

Select Image, Adjustments, Levels

Photoshop opens a Histogram.

Select and drag the left arrow to approximately where the histogram curve starts upwards.

The arrow on the right side of the histogram was OK for image. It there is no data like there was on the left side, then drag the arrow to where it starts upwards. Since I did not have to move the right arrow, I went ahead with the next step. I grabbed the center Gamma Arrow and pulled it to the right. Watch the preview, and move the Gamma Arrow to where you like the look of the image. You may not want to move this arrow at all. If your image has the tallest peak right in the center of the Histogram, the gamma arrow placed directly under the peak usually looks very good.

You may or may not want to set White and Black points. You can give them a try and use Undo to remove the change if it does not work well. Notice that the Mouse Pointer is selecting the eyedropper on the right. This eyedropper allows you to set a White Point for the image. Whatever pixel you select in the image will be set to white, and all of the others will be adjusted accordingly. So you want to select an area that you want to be white. Same goes for setting the Black Point. Select an area that you know you want to be Black.

Having selected the White Point eyedropper, I pointed it to the whitest part of the clouds that I could find. My goal was to make the leaves in the trees whiter.

As you can see, selecting the area of the clouds did not affect the image as I wanted, so I again used the tool, this time selecting the lightest point in the tree leaves that I could find. This made the leaves somewhat lighter. Remember the rest of the image is adjusted accordingly. So use this spareingly, and use the Undo if necessary.

I then selected the Black Point eyedropper.

I selected a very dark area above the window for my black point.

Click on OK to accept the changes.

Return to "Simplified" Tutorial

Contrast Enhancement

2007-04-06T21:10:00.000-06:00

Select Filter and unSharp Mask

Enter the Values 20, 50, 0

Return to "Simplified" Tutorial

Straighten the Image

2007-04-06T21:05:00.000-06:00

Yep, my image is certainly tilted to the left or counter clockwise, but I like it enough the salvage it. No problem.

Select Image, Rotate Canvas

Select Arbitrary

This one needs to be rotated Clockwise (to the right). The angle of 3.5 was a guess, try the number that you think is needed and use the Edit, Undo until you get it looking straight. Remember, the image does not have to actually, technically, be straight, it should LOOK straight.

So, now it looks straight. We need to crop the image to remove the rotated corners.

Select the Crop Tool from the Tool Bar, on the left. Look closely for the mouse pointer arrow.

Select as much of the image as you can, removing the rotated corners. You can also crop into the image now, if you want to. You end up with a selected area surrounded by marching ants.

Click on the Crop Tool in the Tool bar on the left once more, and Photoshop opens this dialog box. Select Crop.

There you are, all straight and pretty.

There are a number of alternate ways in Photoshop to straighten and crop an image. If you have an easier way the do the same thing, just use it. I'm attempting to illustrate the basic steps to straighten and crop.

Return to "Simplified" Tutorial

Post Processing your IR Image - Simplified!

2007-04-06T21:01:00.000-06:00

I get a lot of requests and questions on the subject of Post Processing the IR Image once it's been captured by the Digital Camera. It's a subject that can be very difficult to provide an answer to without going into a long drawn out detailed explaination. Up to this point, I have generally avoided the subject, but it's obvious that with the "Beginners Section" almost fleshed out, it is time to address this, the other half of IR Photography. No one I know ever leaves their images unchanged straight out of the camera. They all do quite a bit of post processing to get the stunning results that you see.

I do have a couple of links in my Useful Links Section. One has steps for a monochrome conversion, and one with Red/Blue Channel swap steps to get False Color IR images.

Useful Links

One thing's for certain, after the Image is taken with the camera, the creative process really just begins. There are as many workflows and creative styles for IR Post Processing as there are IR Photographers. People really develop their distinctive and artistic styles in the image editors. Just take a look at the Featured Photographer Section to get an idea of what is possible and just how diverse the results can be.

There is no way I can cover all the possible ways to Post Process your IR image in one post article, so I have decided to put together a simplified work-flow that I often use to produce Black and White IR Pictures. There are so many individual ways to do this that I must emphasize that there are alternatives to every step that I present, so use your favorite editor and editor methods.

I've found a free plugin that works with most of the major editors, that makes quick work of the conversion to Black and White. It offers a great degree of control, as well as quite a number of toning options in addition to monochrome.

Virtual Photographer can be found and downloaded at:

Virtual Photographer

Be sure to read the instructions for installing the Plugin to your editor while you are at the site.
I have found that it works with Photoshop CS2 and various versions of Photoshop Elements.

When you have the plugin downloaded and installed, you are ready to open your image in your editor of choice. I will be using Photoshop CS2 here but, these steps are pretty generic and will work in most all editors. If you happen to prefer an editor that Virtual Photographer does not work with, a bit of searching the internet will turn up numerous ways to convert your image file to Black and White, which you can substitute.

Here are the Workflow steps. Nothing presented here is Rocket Science, so if you already know how to do a step, you do not have to click the link. If however you do not know how, I have provided a link with detailed steps. So click or skip, as required.

I have chosen a JPG image to work on, it is the most generic output image and not all cameras are capable of producing a RAW file. So, you RAW shooters may just want to review the steps, as you will be able to make some of these adjustments in your RAW editor.

My image was not very level. I'm sure that this only happens to me, but just in case you like that one image that you happened to tilt the camera on, here's one way to level it back up.

Level the Image

I like to do a quick Contrast Enhancement step on just about all of the images that I post process. The change is not dramatic, actually barely perceptable, but I like what it does, so I include it. Here is the explaination about what is going on from Luminance Landscape.

Luminous Landscape

Contrast Enhancement

This image, and most all of them out-of-camera really could stand a Levels Adjustment. If you need to know how, click on the link.

Adjust Levels

Apply the Virtual Photographer filter to make the Black and White Conversion.

Black & White Conversion

I like to make a final Brightness and Contrast Adjustment at this point. Don't use my settings, but experiment with your images. These numbers worked well for this particular image file.

Brightness and Contrast Adjustment

Finally, you may want to apply a small amount of unSharp Mask to sharpen up the image. Don't go overboard with the sharpening. Preview and Undo until you are happy with the way your own picture looks.

Final Sharpen

So there you have it. It may seem like a lot of steps, but you may choose to skip some of them based on how your image looks to start with, and just what result you are trying to achieve. You should consider this only the very beginning of your own personal artistic style.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

IR for Beginners - The Sony Nightshot Cameras

2007-04-06T20:24:00.000-06:00

This time we are going to talk about a group of cameras with a very special Infrared Capability, unlike any other camera on the market. A few of the Sony Digital Still cameras have a feature called Nightshot. The models which have this feature are, starting from the oldest to the newest, the DSC-F707, DSC-F717, DSC-F828, DSC-V1, DSC-V3, and the just released H9.

Nightshot makes these cameras instantly IR Modded, and with the flip of the switch, it goes back to the Un-Modded color capable “Normal” state. Yes, flip a switch and these cameras remove the internal IR Block Hot Mirror filter for IR Photography, and then flip it back, and the IR blocker filter goes back into place for regular Color Photography. All of them are capable of sub-second IR exposures, and can be used handheld. All of this without paying for a professional IR Block Filter removal.

IR Photographers have thru experimentation, found ways to use Nightshot for Daytime IR Photography, and are producing stunning images with these Sonys.

As usually is the case in IR Photography, Sony owners are not Quite using this feature as it was intended by the Sony designers and engineers. So, we will start out here by describing what Nightshot was actually intended to be used for by the Photographer.

Very simply, Nightshot allows you to take an image in complete darkness, in the absence of any available light. Well we all know that the world in not completely dark anywhere but in a darkroom. But, if a scene looks pitch dark to the eye, no reasonable amount of exposure time will ever get you an image. OK, you can fire flashes, focus with laser pattern projection on the subject, and get an image. You can do these things with these cameras too without using Nightshot. But, Sony added a unique IR Capability. When you flip the switch to Nightshot mode, little IR LED Emitters built into the camera turn on, and bathe the scene in IR light. The camera moves the IR Block Filter from in front of the sensor, and, I can say this with relative confidence, adjusts the focus for IR light wavelengths. The result is an image taken in IR Light. You get a greenish image similar to the old Military Night Vision glasses. Eyes reflect the IR and glow in a very strange fashion. Taking “red eye” to another level!

So, Great! Instant IR camera! Well almost. In the Nightshot mode, you have no internal filter in the light path to the sensor. So, you will be getting ALL light spectrums at the sensor, UV, Color, and IR. Since your goal is to shoot IR, this is not what you want. You would get a color image, with strange colors caused by the combination of all of the wavelengths of light that the sensor can record. A real train wreck! Maybe you like Train Wrecks.

If that’s not enough, Sony has removed any user control of Shutter Speed and Aperture settings. The max shutter speed is set at 1/60 for the 7X7s and 1/30 for all the other models. The Aperture is also set wide open, and with the excellent glass on these cameras, that’s usually F2 or F2.2. In bright daylight, at these settings, your image will be completely over-exposed, washed completely out. Remember that Sony intended for you to use this feature only in complete darkness, so it is no wonder that the exposure will be blasted.

Sony also faced some unfortunate criticism with the Nightshot feature on some of their video cameras. People noticed that under some conditions, certain clothing fabrics tend not to reflect IR light at all, which makes them become transparent. Other fabrics, usually underclothing reflect IR well, so people started calling these video cameras, X-Ray cameras. The capability was way overblown, but in the right conditions, examples could be produced. Honestly, you can see more underwear voluntarily displayed standing in supermarket check-out lines, but as with any hysterical “problem”, a definitive cure was necessary from a corporation as large as Sony. So, Sony decided to take care of the problem by restricting the Shutter and Aperture settings on the still frame cameras when in the Nightshot mode.

So, we end up with these cameras with the wonderful “IR Mod on demand” feature, Nightshot, which is tightly restricted as to Shutter and Aperture settings, so much so that Nightshot is un-usable in anything but darkness. Well, never underestimate the determined owner/experimenter. Someone, I don’t know who, came up with the idea to add a screw-on IR Pass Filter to the lens to insure that only IR Light reaches the sensor in daylight. That left the problem of complete over-exposure. Controlling exposure is exactly what Neutral Density (ND) filters are designed for. So the intrepid experimenter tried adding screw-on ND until he/she got the exposure under control. Turns out that ND 8 works well in most bright sunlight conditions. A collection of ND 2, ND4, ND8, and a Circular Polarizer (CP) can take care of just about any daylight exposure conditions. You don't need quite this many ND filters, but I just took a shot of my collection.

This leaves only one minor problem to solve. If you will remember, I stated that when you flip the switch to Nightshot, the camera turns on it’s built in IR Emitter LEDS to bathe the scene in IR light. Well, this is not really a problem, as the camera’s IR light is simply added to the much stronger Natural IR Light from the Sun. Except in the case of the 707 and 717s. Sony placed the Emitters at the end of the lens barrel. Since you will be using screw-on filters, the LEDs will be shining onto the inside surfaces of the filters. Some of that IR Light will reflect off the filter glass, end up back on the sensor and fog your image. The solution turns out to be really simple. Block the IR Emitters, cover them up! The sun gives you plenty of IR Light, so you don’t need their light anyway. Small squares of Black Electrical Tape placed over the emitters, solves the problem, simply and cheaply. The other Nightshot cameras have their IR Emitters located elsewhere on the camera body, and do not introduce this problem, so this is for the 707 and 717 only.

So there you have it. A camera that can, on-demand be turned into an excellent IR Capable Camera, and then converted back to Normal Color Shooting. I have a Sony 717, and I don’t ever use Nightshot to shoot those Night Vision type images, so I have the IR Emitters covered with black tape all the time. If I want to use the camera for IR work, I simply screw on my Hoya R72 IR Pass Filter, and usually an ND 8. I may adjust the ND depending on lighting conditions, but usually it is a no-brainer use of the R72 and ND8. Flip the switch over to Nightshot, and I’m shooting IR at 1/60 second. That is usually fast enough to stop most action, and give an acceptable handheld IR shot. The other models restricted to 1/30, can be shot handheld if the photographer practices steady hold techniques. Short of that, a tripod or monopod will work well to steady the camera.

One final thought and one that was brought up in the Non-DSLR, Prosumer discussion. These Sony models all have Real Time LCD displays, and Real Time Electronic Viewfinders. When you compose with the real time LCD or EVF, the sensor is giving you a view of what it will capture in IR Light. This is a real advantage over the cameras which use Optical Viewfinders, where you can only see the scene in Normal Color Light. IR can make dramatic changes to the view you get of a scene. Seeing it in the IR Light that will be captured is a valuable advantage. Your composition of the scene may be greatly different when you see it in IR vs seeing it in Visible Color Light.

So everything is wonderful and perfect in IR Land right? Just get one of these Nightshot equipped cameras, and you have a perfect tool. By now you know better than that! There are always Cons. In this case, the crippling of the setting of Shutter and Aperture controls will at times have an adverse effect. No matter what you do to steady the camera, there are times when 1/60 or 1/30 sec. shutter speeds are just not going to give you the sharp well exposed image that you want. As for exposure, it is really up to you, and the only thing you can do is add or subtract ND filters. OK, you do still have control of EV adjustments, so you can fine tune your exposure with EV adjustments. As is true with any digital camera, Digital Noise can be a problem if your exposure is not right on. If, the exposure is on, you are fine, which in fact turns out that way most of the time, but occasionally improper exposure can ruin that image that you really wanted. One thing you can do to help control digital noise is to set the ISO to the lowest setting you can select on your camera, and be sure that you shoot in "P" (professional) mode, so that your ISO setting is used.

Happily, these some of these cameras also Mod well. Professional Mods to remove the IR Block Hot Mirror can, as with the modded DSLRs, give you full Shutter and Aperture setting control which will allow you to avoid exposure problems. The extremely sharp glass on each of these models make them really good candidates for modification if you want to take your IR experience all the way. Take a look at Niek's 717 mod steps to get an idea of what it takes to go into the guts of a 717 and remove the IR Block Hot Mirror.

Niek Haak's step by step pictorial

Use the Useful Links here on this site to find companies that professionally make IR mods to cameras. Give them a call to see if they can modify your camera model.

Useful Links

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

IR for Beginners - But, I don't own a DSLR, can I shoot IR?

2007-04-06T19:50:00.000-06:00

Ok, we’ve talked about the DSLR’s and what can be done with them, both in a factory stock configuration, and modified for IR-Only.

So what about all of the other Digital Cameras out there? the point and shoots? the prosumers? the pocket digital cameras? Cameras that do not have interchangeable lenses, and have Real Time Displays. We’ve already stated that IR Photography is possible with just about any digital camera, regardless of its class.

I really don’t like to apply labels to cameras as far as to their class, but it will be much easier to just call these cameras “Prosumers” for purposes of this discussion, so I will use that term here.

If the camera does not have Full Manual Settings and Lens Threads for Filters, the camera is not a good choice to work with. So, although technically capable for IR, practically, the lack of these two critical features eliminates a lot of camera models from consideration, especially the lower models and the pocket size models.

Why are these features so critical?

Well, just as with the un-modded DSLRs, IR exposures with un-modded Prosumer digitals will be rather long, and require use of a tripod. If the camera is fully automatic, without Manual Settings, you will not be able to set it to take a long enough exposure to get an IR Image.

You will also need to be able to attach an IR Pass filter onto the lens, so if the camera does not have lens threads, it will not be very practical. I suppose there’s always Duct Tape.

So, do a quick evaluation of your camera before you go out and buy a relatively expensive IR Filter. You might want to acquire a different model, and it could easily require a different sized filter. Do your homework.

Assuming that your camera has passed this muster, and you have purchased an IR Filter and a sturdy tripod, how will you go about getting an IR image?

Remember from our previous discussion of “Fighting Filters” you will be shooting thru both the IR Pass filter and the internal IR Block filter in the camera.

With your un-modded Prosumer digital, you will have a real advantage over your neighbor who is shooting an un-modded DSLR.

Your Prosumer has a Real Time LCD display, and most likely a Real Time Electronic View Finder, or EVF. These 2 devices will allow you to bypass most of the steps that your DSLR friend must make.

1. Place your camera on your tripod.

2. Screw on the IR Pass Filter.

3. Long Exposures tend to produce more Digital Noise, then short exposures, so set your ISO to the lowest available on your camera, to avoid the noise as much as possible.

4. Set the camera for Manual Settings.

5. Adjust for a mid-Aperture setting, usually around F4.

6. Then adjust the Shutter Speed until your camera’s internal meter reports Zero EV.

You will probably start off not being able to see any image on the LCD or in the EVF, but by the time that you get your exposure settings to Zero EV, you will have a Real Time view of your image on the camera. You can then finalize the composition of your image using the Real Time View.

This is a Huge advantage over your DSLR using neighbor. You will be seeing your image in IR rather than visible color light, and you will really be able to see how objects such as foliage, sky, water, and other materials reflect the IR light, and will look in your final image. Your composition can be adjusted in Real Time.

Depending on the camera, you will most likely get an image that is heavily reddish, or mostly purples, or Bronze in color. You will work out the colorations in Post Processing, or convert to B&W in your editor later. Post Processing is as much a part or IR Photography as is taking the image.

It’s worth pointing out that many of the Prosumer models were produced prior to the current flock of DSLRs. The internal IR Block filters installed in the early cameras were not as aggressive at blocking IR light as are the IR Block filters in the more modern cameras, especially the DSLRs. So, where a DSLR might take a 10 second exposure to gather enough IR light thru the blocker to get an image, the Prosumers usually require much shorter exposure times.

As with the DSLRs, you may want to experiment with setting a Custom White Balance. Do the WB off thick green grass or some other foliage or object what will reflect white in IR. Or try some of the built-in WB settings included in your camera.

IR Photography is a constant Experiment, both in acquiring the image and post processing it.

How about having your Prosumer modded to remove the Internal IR Block filter? You should first check with the companies who do these mods professionally. You will find that they usually offer mods for a very select group of Prosumer models. So, investigate which models may be modded to see what is available to you.

If you find that your camera is one of the chosen that can be modded, you have, unlike the DSLR owners who have mods done, an extra choice to make.

When the professional removes the Internal IR Block filter, he may replace it with either IR Pass Filter material, or with Clear Optical Glass.

If you choose to install the IR Pass Filter material, your camera will be IR-Only from then on, just like the modified DSLRs. You will not need any screw-on filters to take IR Photos.

Prosumer owners, who choose to have their camera modded, most often decide to have the Clear Optical Glass installed. This will give you 4 separate modes with which you can experiment.

1. Shoot without any filter at all, allowing Visible Light and IR Light mixed to be recorded by the sensor. You can get some interesting effects and colors.

2. Purchase a screw-on filter of the same IR Block material that was removed from the inside of the camera, install it on the lens, and shoot regular Color in Visible Light, just as you did before the modification.

3. Purchase a screw-on IR Pass filter, such as the widely used Hoya R72, and install it on the lens. You will be shooting in IR with full camera aperture and shutter speeds available to you.

4. Try various colored screw on filters for full-on, no-holds barred Experimentation.

Bottom line, there are many, many cameras that can be used for IR Photography. A DSLR is not required, and as you can see from this discussion, the Prosumers have some significant advantages to offer.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

IR For Beginners - Maybe I Should Have My DSLR Modded!

2007-03-26T19:48:00.000-06:00

We have discussed the pros and cons of shooting IR with a DSLR in its factory configuration. IR Shooters generally refer to that as “Un-Modded”, or if the camera has been modified for IR Photography, “Modded”. So, let’s take some time to talk about just what “Modded” really means.

We are going to concentrate on DSLRs.

I will write up a separate section about all the other Digital Cameras, usually known as Prosumers, specifically, cameras that have non-interchangeable lenses, an Electronic View Finder (EVF) as opposed to an Optical View Finder (OVF), and a Real Time LCD.

So just what does the “Mod” entail? Basically, the camera is dis-assembled to the point that the Internal Blocker, or Hot Mirror IR Block Filter can be removed from the camera. It is located right on top of the sensor. Even tho you can see it covering the sensor in dust clean mode, the filter is not removable without taking the camera apart. This is a task best performed by a professional, or an owner with above average skills.

Immediately, you are looking at 2 significant issues when you have an IR Modification done.

1. A professional will charge somewhere in the neighborhood of $300 to $500 US, depending on the camera model.

2. Your camera warranty, if you still have one that is in effect, will be immediately voided.

So, you face these decisions right off the bat. Most IR shooters have a second or older generation body modded rather then their bright shiny new DSLR. They already have a nice collection of lenses, and there are still a lot of miles left in the previous generation DSLR body. Some bodies can be purchased in good used condition for a very reasonable price. Warranty is hardly ever an issue with a used camera body. It has usually expired long ago.

The physical change to the camera is not all that significant. The professional takes the camera apart, removes the IR Block Filter, replaces it with an identical thickness piece of glass that is an IR Pass Filter. The thickness of the glass must be exactly the same as the original that is being removed in order to retain focus. Depending on the professional, adjustments may be made to compensate for the different focal point of IR vs Visible light wavelengths, and the camera is re-assembled and tested. All the while, in the process, the camera is kept clean internally and great care is taken with parts and connections.

In the “un-Modded” discussion, we used a screw-on IR Pass Filter on the lens. Now we have removed the “fighting filter” and moved the IR Pass inside the camera. You will no longer need an external IR filter. You will be able to use all of your lens collection, no matter what thread size, you will not be limited to the requirement of having a Pass Filter to fit each one. This fact alone could save you a considerable amount of money.

So you get your camera back in fine shape, and you are ready to put a charged battery in your baby and go out and impress the world with your newly purchased IR skills. In point of fact, it’s almost that easy.

There are a few issues that you will still have to deal with in order to get that great IR shot. It’s a pretty short learning curve.

1. You will be composing your shot thru the OVF in Visible light. You will not be able to preview the IR image. You will have to take the shot, and review the exposure, composition, and IR result after the fact on the LCD. The camera will be able to set a fairly close exposure for you in the auto or program modes, so you will not face the level of experimentation described in the “Un-Modded” write up. You will find that you still need to review your histogram, as the mono-chromatic image you see on the LCD will not give you the familiar exposure clues that you are used to seeing in Color. As you gain experience, you will begin to “see and think in IR” and be able to predict your IR Image results.

2. Shooting in Aperture Priority and beginning at F8 is also probably a good place to start until you learn how your camera focuses in IR. You might have to make some focus compensation, but likely you won’t.

3. You may want to bump ISO or EV up just a bit to adjust the exposure that the camera picks with its meter. Increasing EV by a stop is usually a good starting place until you have experimented enough to predict how your exposures will come out.

4. White Balance adjustments can make a big difference in your initial out-of-camera image. I would suggest that you do some initial trial shots in bright sunlight, cycling thru your camera’s entire set of WB settings to see which gives you a result that you like. The image varies greatly between manufacturers and between sensor types as well.

5. Many IR Shooters prefer setting a Custom White Balance to the in-camera WB pre-sets. Find some plant life that strongly reflects IR light, such as tightly packed leaves on a tree, or healthy green grass. Fill the frame with the foliage, manually focus, grossly out of focus, to even out foliage and gaps or shadows, and record your CWB.

6. As in shooting Color, shooting in RAW will give you the most adjustment control in Post Processing, but if you prefer to shoot JPG, I think you will still be very successful.

Your modded DSLR will give you back full control of Aperture and Shutter Speed settings, which will overcome the long exposure requirements that you had prior to the Mod. You will essentially be able to shoot as you would in Visible Color Light.

It goes without saying that you will now only be able to shoot in Infrared. Visible Light Color Photography will no longer be possible unless you were to have the camera modification reversed to re-install the IR Block Filter. Since this is expensive, it is not a very practical thing to do. You may wish to keep the IR Block Filter just in case you decide for some reason to have the mod reversed.

So, with your DSLR’s innate controls and features, and a wide choice of lenses, the creative juices can begin to flow freely.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

IR For Beginners - My DSLR is Not Modded for IR

2007-03-25T18:36:00.000-06:00

Can I shoot IR successfully, even tho my camera is not Modified for IR?

This is another common question asked by the ever-increasing numbers of people who have moved up to DSLRs. The investment to make the move to a DSLR can be siginificant, and usually there are just not a lot of $$$ left over to own a second DSLR camera body, and then pay to have it modified for IR. Yet, there is still a strong desire on many photographer's part to explore Infrared Photography.

Well the answer to the above question is an un-qualified YES!

Today, I had the opportunity to meet in the field with a DSLR owner who has that strong desire to make a start in IR, but can only afford one DSLR body. This person's primary shooting is Color Photography, yet he wanted IR bad enough that he had already purchased a Hoya R72 IR Pass Filter for one of his lenses. He was unable to successfully get an exposure thru the IR Pass that he could even see, much less one he could use.

We started out with the basics, reviewing some of the information in the previous posts for Beginners. The Camera has an IR Block Filter inside, and he has the screw on Hoya R72. Sounds like the "Fighting Filters" I described. Yes, so how will any light at all reach the sensor, if you have 2 filters in line to block all the light? Well, the fact is that the internal Block filter is efficent, but if you expose long enough, IR light will get thru it and reach the sensor. The shooter is also interested in getting some of that attractive "False Color" in his yet to be captured images. The Hoya R-72 is efficent at blocking Color light and letting IR Pass thru, but, the fact is that it will allow a certain amount of Color light to pass thru also, enough to be able to post process for False Color.

If you simply put the Hoya R72 on your lens, and attempt to make a shot, as you would in color, you immediately run into a few problems.

You can't see any of the IR light that passes thru the R72, so it's impossible to compose and focus your scene. You see a black scene in your view finder. There's light there, IR light, but as you know, it's light you can't see.

So what to do?

Here's the steps we took.

1. We knew that the exposure was going to be long, much too long to hand hold, so he mounted his camera on his tripod. The remote shutter release that he already had came in really handy, as he did not have to touch the camera to take shots.

2. He selected a scene to shoot with a bit of help from me, that I knew would have some foliage and grass that reflect IR light.

3. In Color (no filter mounted), he composed the scene and focused. He locked focus so that it would not change.

4. He then screwed on the Hoya IR filter to his lens threads.

5. He placed the camera in Manual settings mode.

6. I suggested that he start with an aperture of F8 or even smaller. IR light's wavelenghts are different than those of Color's, so IR does not focus at exactly the same point as Color on the sensor. The DOF of F8 should compensate and give him a reasonable focus. This may have to be adjusted.

7. Having no idea what Shutter Speed would be required for the lighting conditions that we were in, we started with a One Second Exposure, and took the shot.

8. We reviewed the shot on the LCD and looked over the Histogram. Well, there was an exposure there, but it was massively under-exposed.

9. So, wanting to keep the F8 Aperture, we started adjusting the ISO and Shutter Speed. Since we knew that the first attempt was under, we bumped the ISO up, and set a longer shutter speed.

10. After we changed the settings and took another shot, we reviewed the image and histogram on the LCD. We did this 5 or 6 times until we found a setting that should give him a reasonable exposure that he can post process.

I'm not going to quote you setting numbers, as they would not be valid for any attempt you make anyway. To illustrate my point, he decided to turn around and compose on a scene behind us, and although the settings for the first shot were a lot closer, they still required a few iterations of change, shoot, review, to get a decent histogram.

So, as you can see, IR is possible with the standard DSLR and the Screw On Filter.

There are Pros and Cons.

On the Pro side, a relatively inexpensive IR Pass Filter added to your kit, (assuming you have a tripod), gets you started in IR.

This is an update to the original Post: This change in my statement about the inexpensive IR Pass filter may just move the single Pro to the Con side. You must decide for yourself. I have been pricing Hoya R72 IR Pass filters since I started looking into the Sony H9 and realized that it has an odd filter adapter thread size of 74mm. Ok, a stop down to 72mm or a step up to 77mm rings are inexpensive and would solve the problem. But, have you looked at the price of Hoya RM72 and RM90 filters when they get up in size to the 70mm's? They are VERY expensive, especially compared to the 58mm size requirement that I have been personally using in the past (about $40). So, I came to the aditional realization that MANY of the lenses that DSLR owners already have and would want to utilize for their IR are in fact in this larger thread size. The prices of these Pass filters are still lower than the cost of a DSLR mod, but it means the cost effective-ness vs. a professional modification is MUCH more narrow. If you have a lens for your DSLR that takes a thread size closer to the small side, my original statement stands. You should do some price investigation before you decide to buy.

But, (there's always a But). I meant to bring this up in a subsequent discourse here in the series, but I have to raise it now. Your lens collection likely includes glass that has a number of different thread sizes. So, you already realize that you will need to pick one or two of them from your collection to buy an appropriately sized IR Pass for. Step rings may of course adapt some more of them for you. Here's the But! Some of the lenses of all brands have the annoying habit of producing a "Hot Spot" in the center of the image. So, it goes without saying that you need to investigate your lens collection to see if any of them are reported to Hot Spot before you decide to buy an expensive Pass Filter for it. Google for the subject and you will find lists on the internet. Look at my Useful Links, the Yahoo Infrared Group has compiled a list of lenses known to have this Hot Spot problem in IR.

I will dedicate a Post to the Hot Spot issue at a later date, and go into the issue in more depth. In the mean time realize that you will have to look into this issue before you purchase a filter.

Back to the original Post:

The Con side is a little bit longer.

Depending you your own camera/lens/sensor/IR Blocker, your exposure times will be rather long, and really cannot be predicted without experimentation. After you get some shooting under your belt, you will doubtless be able to somewhat predict what settings you will need for the conditions you see before you.

Long exposure times means you will be limited to static scenes where your subject does not move, or, you will need to incorporate motion blur into your creative process. A very common IR subject often includes trees and other foliage. If there is any wind at all, motion blur is going to prevent you from getting a sharply in focus image. A mountain scene with snow would hardly move at all, so if you choose wisely, you will be able to find scenes that are static enough for your IR.

Contrasty white clouds on a clear black sky are an IR Shooter's Delight. If you are shooting multi-second exposures, those clouds will move a maddenly long distance in your scene while the shutter is open.

Shooting Handheld will likely be difficult, if not impossible.

Experimentation to obtain exposure or bracketing will require patience on your part.

Shooting any scenes with human or animal subjects moving about may not result in an image that you will be pleased with.

If you are creative enough, these Cons can be avoided or even turned to your advantage. It's up to you to be innovative and clever, turning the negatives to positives. (pun intended).

Do not be discouraged. Start with the equipment that you have, and upgrade as you gain experience and knowledge in the basics of IR Shooting.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

Featured IR Photographer Showcase - Niek Haak

2007-03-19T20:12:00.000-06:00

Most of Niek's fantastic IR work comes to us from around his home, Middelburg, Zeeland / Netherlands. Niek’s subjects are as varied as his talents behind the camera. His Gallery also includes some images from New Zealand. Be sure to spend some time browsing around his extensive Gallery.

When you finish, take a look at the Useful Links area here at the IR Blog. You will find a Link to another of Niek’s Galleries. In it you will see the full details of the steps he took to modify his Sony DSC-F717 camera for full shutter and aperture control, which he refers to in his Bio. Welcome Niek.

Bio: I started using photography around age 15, capturing moon images with my telescope and a Practica SLR camera. After a year of astrophotography I became interested in general photography - most of all because of the beautiful pictures I kept seeing from my uncle Bram. I learned the secrets of the B&W darkroom, started a big photography club at my local high school and taught many others the joy of photography. When the Practica gave up after about 15.000 shots I purchased the then revolutionary Olympus OM-2 SLR with some OM lenses. Photography (mostly nature/macro/landscape images on color slide film) became my most important hobby.

Because of university studies (biochemistry) and work life, photography faded to the background. In the late nineties I became interested in photography again as a result of the developments in digital imaging. I purchased an Olympus C-2000z digicam (totally unaware of its good IR capabilities) and became enthusiastic. The C-2000z was upgraded to a C-2500z, later followed by the Sony DSC-F707 and DSC-F717 cameras. The 717 proved to be so good that the OM-2 now stayed at home most of the time; I finally sold it after 25 years of faithful service. Early in 2002 I started experimenting with IR photography using the Nightshot mode of the Sony 707. I remember getting some good advice from people on the net, Chris Maher being one of them. I had experimented with IR photography on film when I was young, but found it too difficult to enjoy. Digital IR changed everything and I'm still enthusiastic about this new window on the world around us.

In 2004 I got very ill because of a tick byte (Lyme disease) and my life and photography hobby suffered badly. It took nearly two years to get diagnosis and start treatment for the illness. Last year I spent several months in hospital; I'm now slowly recovering. Staying at home enabled me to take a better look at the 717 and its limitations for IR in Nightshot mode (most of all the slow shutter speeds that blurred many shots, and problems with using wide converters). I decided to remove the internal hot mirror to make it an even better IR camera; you can see all details on my pbase website. I have considered switching to an IR-dedicated DSLR and would love to see a big sensor digicam specially made for IR. But until then I'm perfectly happy with the modified 717. It is SO easy to use for IR, and while the small 5 MP sensor has its limitations, with the right processing you can make beautiful 20x30 inch infrared prints. I look forward to taking IR pictures again this spring season with my modified 717 camera!

Niek Haak's Gallery

Let Niek know how much you enjoy and appreciate his Stunning IR Work!

-=- Jerry -=-

Mr. IR

2007-03-16T23:04:00.000-06:00

Our latest convert to the IR-aholics 10 step program.

Dane Tessler on the Rocks.

wielding that 717 for the IR dark side!

-=- Jerry -=-
.

Update on the new Sony H9 with Nightshot

2007-03-15T19:16:00.000-06:00

Click this link to open the Original Post about the new Sony H9 Camera.

Is-Sony-offering-best-out-of-box Infrared Camera?

I have added an update with some new information to the original Post.

This may be a very interesting IR camera.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

Yahoo Infrared Photography Group

2007-03-15T18:37:00.000-06:00

Today I want to talk about the Yahoo Infrared Photography Group.

This group was perhaps the first dedicated Internet IR Photography Community. It was started in June 2003 by Al Butler. Al is still an active and contributing member, but got he busy with other things, and in March 2005 he turned over the reins to Jules Alexander. You have probably seen Jules posting around the web with the handle “lulalake”.

When Jules took over the membership of the group, interest in IR shooting was fairly small. But as awareness of IR digital photography grew, so did the membership, and, as of this writing, it is around twelve hundred members world wide. Initially the group was all digital, but as time went on Jules folded in an IR film group so that it now covers both, digital and film infrared photography. Film and Digital are very similar in some ways, very different in others.

The group has several databases, one with over 50 IR capable, and not so capable cameras, one of lenses that create/exacerbate the dreaded "hot spot", one filter equivalency, and a few more which you will find valuable to peruse.

Members range from absolute beginners in IR Photography, to extremely knowledgeable pros, authorized camera mfg. reps., computer jockeys, forensic scientists, farmers, artists, mechanics, …. you name it, they are represented.

The group’s goal is simple; to hang out, swap stories, share and learn about infrared photography.

Please visit and throw in your 2 cents or take out a couple of shiny pennies if you like.

The link to the Group is:
Yahoo Infrared_Photography Group/

You can also find the URL in this Blog's "Useful Links" section, making it easy to find at any time.

Thank you for all of your efforts to further the knowledge, Jules!

-=- Jerry -=-

Reference material provided by and courtesy of: Jules Alexander

Check out My IR Gallery

Recent Activity

2007-03-14T21:42:00.000-06:00

The Useful Links section has been given it's own link here so that you don't have to look around and dig it out of the Archives. I have also cleaned it up, and tested all of the links. My apologies to you for it having gotten a bit out of hand as I added links suggested by you the readers. I had to learn a little bit of HTML to get that train wreck cleaned up, but it is now much better organized, and all the links work.

Please take a good look at the first Featured IR Photographer Showcase. Put your own package of your work together and send it to me in an email. I will be proud to feature and promote Creative Infrared Work and Artists. I want to reiterate one point. I do not want anyone to send me Photo Image files. I will work only with links to your gallery and links to individual images in the gallery. Your Copyright Ownership is a priority to me. You will not be committing your work here in any different fashion than posts you make of images to discussion forums, and public galleries.

I hope that you are enjoying and profiting from this site so far. It has taken a lot of effort on my part to build it to the point that you see today. There is still as lot of work to do, especially in fleshing out the "Beginners" series. I will eventually cover everything I can think of regarding the "how to" of Infrared Photography. Remember, Rome wasn't built in a day, and this site will be constantly under construction. So check back often. Comment frequently. Let me know what you are doing and thinking!

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

How to have your own work Featured Here

2007-03-12T21:01:00.000-06:00

I’m proud to kick off the section that I think will be the most successful and popular part of my Blog. Namely, “The Featured IR Photographer Showcase”. I firmly believe that people need a special place to showcase their Good, High Quality IR Photography. IR shooters of every skill level will definitely benefit from the opportunity to view the work of the many skilled Photographers out there who have this special interest in Infrared.

So, the first Featured Photographer I am selecting is ….. Me!

Yes, myself, and with a special purpose in order to get this section of the Blog off the ground. This first one will serve as a template for you to review and understand what I will need from you to select You as a Featured Photographer!.

Featured Photographer: Jerry Kneupper (I will need your name, obviously).

Personal Bio: I have been interested in photography since the day I saw my first 35mm camera in a college graphic arts class. It was completely manual, it didn’t even have a built in light meter! After I returned from service to my country, I took advantage of the “G.I. Bill” and enrolled in some classes at the local Junior College. Luckily for me, Dr. John Boykin taught the B&W evening photography classes. Having purchased a Petri 35mm SLR while in the service, I set about learning about photography and how to use the 35. Dr. John was a tremendous instructor, and I gained a lifelong love and appreciation for photography from his classes. Life, marriage, and children, intruded greatly on my time for the hobby, and I believe if it were not for the advent of Digital Cameras a few years ago, I would not have experienced this renewed interest in the craft. Along with digital, came the surge of the internet, discussion boards, and many new and knowledgeable friends. Of course, along the way, I started reading about the possibility of shooting in IR, and I just had to try it. I always felt that I wanted to start up a web site or “something” online to share everything we know about IR. I decided to give the Blog a try, and the rest is, as they say, history.

My favorite Infrared Images: (pick out 3 to 6 images from your publicly viewable gallery to display here).

My Gallery of my Best Infrared Work: (the gallery must be publicly viewable and directly linkable).

My IR Gallery

Copyright Statement: All Images and materials displayed and showcased here, are copyrighted and are the exclusive property of the artist. Images and material may not be reproduced or used in any way without the written consent of the artist.

So, there you have it, a very simple package. Everything I will need from you to be considered for selection in a periodic “Featured IR Photographer Showcase”. You probably already have a public gallery up of your best work, or you could easily assemble one from your existing online galleries. Please size your images as you would for posting in other forums. 640x480 pixels or close will be acceptable.

Email me with your package submission.

My email policy: Email me at infraredbuzz at gmail dot com. In order for me to keep valid email messages and dispense with spam you MUST include this "secret handshake" in the subject line. "scooter" (my cat's name). So for example: your subject line would look something like this "scooter hey Jerry I have IR info for you". If I don't see that word somewhere in the subject line, into the cosmic bit bucket goes the email, no exceptions (unless I happen to recognize your email addy). Thanks for your understanding. I expect a lot of unfamiliar email traffic.

-=- Jerry -=-

Photography Related Forum with a dedicated IR Section

2007-03-10T10:35:00.000-06:00

Texas Photo Forum, the TPF is one of the few Photography related discussion forums that has a section dedicated to Infrared. Many other forums have IR activity in their Black & White sections, but TPF is the only forum of this type that I know of that has a Dedicated IR Section.

Be sure to drop in on the TPF to see a good deal of activity in Infrared.

Texas Photo Forum

You may just Lurk if that suites you, but to get the most value out of the forum, go ahead and Register. It's free, and you will be able to submit comments and questions, and get answers from people with a lot of experience and knowledge about things IR.

When you register, give the owner Abel a shout and tell him you saw it here.

And, BTW, you don't have to live in Texas to join this forum. People from around the world post in the IR section.

-=- Jerry -=->

Check out My IR Gallery

The Kimbell

2007-03-08T22:07:00.000-06:00

The Kimbell Art Museum

Arts District - Ft. Worth, TX.

(Click on Image for a Full Size View)

This image was made with a Roger Salmon modded Canon D30 DSLR

ISO-100 1/60, F5.6

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

IR for Beginners - Fighting Filters

2007-03-07T00:05:00.000-06:00

This time we will talk about Filters. Specifically, filters that are used for photography. Basically, by definition, a filter is a device that will prevent something from passing thru it. In this case various wavelengths of light that would reach the sensor or film in our cameras.

For Infrared Photography, there are mainly 2 different filters to identify and understand.

Infrared Pass Filter – This filter allows (or passes) the wavelength of light in the infrared spectrum. (Remember our first discussion of IR Light). In the process, this filter allows IR, but “filters” or does not allow the visible wavelengths below IR to pass thru it. It is actually a Selective Filter, selecting what is desired to pass, and blocking the rest.

Infrared Block or Hot Mirror Filter – The two terms are used interchangeably, they are referring to the same filter. As you might expect, this type filter allows Visible Light to pass thru it and Blocks the IR spectrum. Again a selective process.

So, the obvious question you might ask goes something like this. “I have a digital camera, and although I really am interested in learning how to shoot IR, I don’t remember seeing either of these filters included in the box with my camera, so what gives?”

Your observation is correct. You didn’t get either of these filters as an assessory in the box, but you do have an IR Block filter. It is installed inside your digital camera right in front of your sensor. They all have them.

The purpose of the IR Block filter is to prevent IR light from reaching the sensor. If the IR light were not blocked, colors would not be rendered accurately by your digital camera. Here is an example of a photo taken with a camera that has been modified to remove the IR Block filter and replace it with clear glass. In this photo you can see the effect that the IR light would have on a color picture. So it’s obvious, your camera, unless you modify it, won’t allow IR light to reach the sensor. (Example Photo by Jules Alexander, used with permission.)

So, you have probably already been thinking, “In order to shoot IR, I must need an IR Pass filter to deliver only IR light to the sensor in my camera”. Right you are, you do need an IR Pass filter to selectively filter out the Visible Color light wavelengths and deliver that beautiful IR image.

But, if you were to add the IR Pass to the camera that has an internal IR Block filter inside, by the definitions that we have described, absolutely no light would be delivered to the sensor, so how are we going to get an IR image out of this combination that gets down to no light passing thru?

This is why I have coined the term “Fighting Filters”. Seems like what we have, right? Each one is blocking out what the other one is allowing to pass thru. OOPS! Houston we have a problem. No light, no picture!

Well, the reality is that neither one of these filters is 100% capable of blocking and passing the light that they are designed to block and pass.

The IR Pass allows the IR wavelengths and blocks MOST of the Visible Color Light, but not all of it.

The IR Block allows the Color Visible and blocks MOST of the IR wavelengths, but not all of it.

So it is possible to have both filters in your light path to the sensor, and if you take a photo with a long exposure time, you can get enough IR light to the sensor to produce an IR Image. The filters fight each other, but each has sufficient weakness to deliver enough IR light to make an image.

We will add one more idea to this lesson, and wrap it up. This is important to your understanding for IR Photography, so get this idea tucked away in the ol’ grey matter.

Not all IR Blocker or Hot Mirror filters are created equal. Some are more aggressive at blocking IR light than others. The “aggressiveness” of the blockers is a matter of what the camera manufacturer chose to include in the design of their camera. Don’t forget, the camera manufacturer’s main goal is to produce the best possible Color image. Period! They are not factoring in the off chance that you might be interested in also using their product for IR.

When people remark that this camera or that camera is more or less “sensitive to IR” what they are really referring to is how aggressive the IR Block filter in their particular camera is in blocking the IR light from reaching the sensor.

In the next post we will talk about how we can add an IR Pass Filter to your stock camera and get an IR Image.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

Stormy Angel

2007-03-05T23:27:00.000-06:00

This image was made on a Stormy day in the Greenwood Cemetary

(Click on image for a full size view)

Image made with Sony DSC-F717

Nightshot, Hoya R72, ND8, 1/60, F2.2, ISO-100

Please visit often to view IR images from my large collection of IR work.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

Ft. Worth Zoo - Ft. Worth, TX.

2007-03-05T23:11:00.000-06:00

This image was made in the Texas Area of the Ft Worth Zoo.

(Click on the image for a full size view. )

The image was made with a Sony DSC-F717
Nightshot, Hoya R72, ND8, F2, ISO-100

Please visit often to view IR Images from my large collection of my work.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

Longhorn Herd Cattle Drive

2007-03-01T21:12:00.000-06:00

A daily event in the Ft. Worth Stockyards

Image made in Ft. Worth, TX.

(Click on the image for a full size view. )

This Image was made with a Canon D30
modded for IR by Roger Salmon in the UK. 1/200, F8, ISO-100

Please visit regularly to see more images from my large collection of IR work.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

IR For Beginners - What about my Camera?

2007-03-01T19:42:00.000-06:00

Will I be able to take IR Photos with the camera I already have, or must I buy a second, possibly expensive camera in order to join in the IR fun? This is probably the first question on any photographer's mind when they decide that they have found IR images just too irresistable to pass up the opportunity to take some of their own. I know from the various forums, it's usually the first question that gets asked.

But, sometimes the first question proposed is something like this:

"I bought an IR filter, and now I can't figure out how to get the great Infrared Photos I see all of you posting! Help me out here!".

Really, this is the approach that many photographers initially take. It's not a really bad decision, but maybe I can help you make a more informed decision as to how you want to approach starting in IR, BEFORE you spend any money.

Here is a link (also in my list of useful links area) to a Yahoo Group dedicated to Infrared Photography both Digital and Film. The group is very professionally moderated by Jules Alexander aka: lulalake. You should sign up with Yahoo to get the most out of the group, but you can still obtain a lot of knowledge if you don't decide to sign in. The best advantage is that you will be able to ask questions of a very able group of people and get reliable answers to your specific questions if you are registered. Personally I already had a Yahoo account, so I was "in" from the get-go.

Yahoo IR Group

One of the first things you should do is pop down to the Group's "Databases" area. There you will find an extensive list of Cameras that people who frequent the list have compiled. You will learn from their experience just which cameras that they consider good IR tools, and which have particluar issues. Most of the issues listed are not fatal to the ability to make an IR photo, but you might have to make some adjustments to your shooting procedure to get a good image. It's always a good thing to be armed with information before you spend $$$$.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and will make a blanket statement. All digital cameras are capable of shooting in IR! Sort of like the turtle who sticks his neck out in order to go somewhere, sometimes you have to take the opportunity to be wrong to make progress.

Having made this somewhat rash statement, let me start adding modifiers. Most of these will seem obvious to you when you think about them.

If the camera doesn't have lens threads to hold a IR filter in front of the lens, it may not be a good choice for your IR work. I guess duct tape solves almost any problem, but I would not want to have to rely on duct tape to hold the filter on my camera.

If the camera does not have Manual settings for ISO, White Balance, and especially Shutter and Aperture settings, it may not be a good choice for IR work.

I'm not going so far as to state that all the pocket size P&S cameras can't take IR shots, because I believe that they can --technically. But you just won't have a good experience if you lack those important features. Duct tape and fully automatic settings are just not going to cut it for you.

Every digital imaging sensor that I know of will record light in the IR wavelengths (remember the first post?). Someone who is completely familiar with image sensors on a technical level may be able to prove me wrong, but my point is, if you are using a digital camera there is a very good chance that you can shoot in IR.

On the Internet, people talk about, and wonder if, their camera is "sensitive to IR". I've grown to hate that phrase, because, as I just said, if it's digital, it will record in IR. It's not a matter of sensitivity. You will also see many references to "testing" your digital camera with a TV Remote to see if the camera can "see" IR. A total waste of time, but if you want to play with the "test" go ahead. You will see what I mean when we get further into these posts.

So, your assignment is to peruse the Yahoo list and discover what other experienced people think of the camera that you own and are going to use for your IR work.

In the Next Post, we are going to start talking about filters, both the ones that won't allow IR light to get to your sensor, and those that allow only IR light to pass to the sensor.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

IR For Beginners - It's The Light!

2007-02-28T20:36:00.000-06:00

Hello fellow IR shooters, and especially those who are just starting out in IR Photography! This post is the first in a series in which I will discuss topics targeted specifically to IR Photography using Digital Cameras.

Let's cut to the chase, Shooting in IR is amazingly easy to do, but only after you have learned some of the basics. And especially after you have learned to use the camera equipment that you own to shoot in IR. There are quite a number of variables for you to learn, but you will easily get down to the brass tacks of your specific gear.

Hopefully you will get a good general working knowledge about IR from these posts, but you will find that you only need a small portion of what we will talk about in your day to day shooting.

Back to the title.... it really is "The Light".

Light in the Infrared Wavelength Spectrum is just above the Reds of the Visible Spectrum that we humans can see. We are not able to see the IR Wavelenghts above visible Red, or Ultra Violet below the blues and purples. The following graphic will give you an idea of the Visible colors that we can see, as well as wavelengths on either side of the Visible Light that we are unable to see with our eyes.

Graphic courtesy of: www.maxmax.com

click on image to view a full sized version - used with permission.

Starting around 350 nanometers on the chart are the Ultraviolet or UV wavelenghts. We are unable to see these and will not be shooting this light, but close on, we get into the Visible range starting with the Purples. As in the colors of the rainbow, Visible light progresses and ends up around 780 nanometers, in the Reds. Above that, we start the InfraRed wavelengths. Again, we are not able to see them but they are present, especially in the natural light from the sun.

It helps to have a graphical representation of the light that is always around us, even if most of us non-scientists don't really understand the technicals of what it is all about. The important fact is IR is there, it exists, and it is the target of our IR Photography efforts.

Next Post we will discuss how you are going to go about capturing this "Invisible Light" and put it into a form that the human eye can see and appreciate.

Really facinating stuff, this IR Light.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

2007-02-27T21:16:00.000-06:00

Clouds and Cattails

This image was made over the small lake at Bob Jones Park - Southlake, TX.

(Click on the image for a full size view. )

This Image was made with a Canon 350D modded for IR by LifePixel. 1/125, F8, ISO-100

Please visit regularly to see more images from my large collection of IR work.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

The Boys of Summer

2007-02-26T20:40:00.000-06:00

Art In the Park

Image made in Liberty Park - Southlake, TX.

(Click on the image for a full size view. )

This Image was made with a Canon D30

modded for IR by Roger Salmon in the UK. 1/320, F4, ISO-100

Please visit regularly to see more images from my large collection of IR work.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

Is Sony offering the best out of box Infrared Camera Yet?

2007-02-25T21:04:00.000-06:00

There is a strong rumor floating about a soon to be released Sony H9 model.

Following on the heels of the widely regarded H1, H2, and H5 super-zoom line, the H9 is generating a particluar Buzz in the IR Photographer Community.

Yes, it's true that the very best quality Infrared Images are made with a DSLR and Quality Glass, but, you have to be a very dedicated IR shooter to invest in the DSLR, the Glass, (hopefully you already have a substantial Glass collection for your Color Photography), and about another $300-400 to have the camera professionally modded for IR dedicated Photography.

Yep, it takes some dedication to the craft to mod your DSLR, void the warranty, and restrict it to IR, no more color shots from it. It's a route that many of us have taken, the author included.

It's widely known and acknowledged that the Sony line of cameras that have the Nightshot Feature are perhaps the best "out of the box" choice for IR work. Buy a roll of black electrical tape, an IR Pass Filter, and a couple of ND filters and you are in business. No long exposures, or professional modifications are necessary to achieve stunning IR results.

Of course we are speaking of the Sony Cybershot line, the DSC-F707, DSC-717, DSC 828, DSC-V1, and the DCS-V3. All having the Nightshot IR feature which moves the internal hot mirror out of the light path, effectively modding the camera on a temporary basis for IR, and allowing the photographer to switch back to the normal Visible Color modes at the flip of a switch.

Sony owners interested in Infrared Photography all eagerly peruse each new camera announcement from Sony, looking for Sony to introduce a new camera with Nightshot, or an equivilent capability to facilitate IR Photography. Many forum posts have pleaded with Sony to bring Nightshot back

Well, has Sony been listening? If you look closely at the list of features on the included image, there, right in the middle, it states Nightshot! The first time in a long time.

(click on the image for a full size view)

Is it true? Is the H9 a reality? I suppose we won't know for sure if this is just a rumor or if the camera really will be marketed?, and if Nightshot will be implemented or not? We certainly hope so!

There are a number of distinct advantages to shooting IR with a Sony Cybershot. The Carl Zeiss branded glass is widely known for it's exceptional quality. You get the almost priceless advantage of the real time EVF and LCD display in IR, enabling you to preview your image in real time. With the modded DSLR, the photographer is forced to view the scene in Visible Color, forced to guess how the image is going to finally look in IR. Anyone who has any IR experience under his/her belt, knows what an advantage this can be. IR Compositions can really only be seen in real time, even with a lot of that experience.

The question that will leave all of the Sony IR shooters breathlessly waiting for the final announcement will be "Will Nightshot continue to be Crippled?".

Due to concerns that Nightshot could be used as an "X-Ray" camera to look through certain types of clothing fabrics, Sony decided in the past to avoid the controversy althogether by crippling the Nightshot feature, imposing shutter and aperture limits. This allows the photographer no control of either setting. The 7x7's have a shutter speed max. of 1/60 sec. and F2 or F2.2 aperture. The other models are further limited to 1/30 sec. as the fastest shutter speed available, and all are set automatically. Quite limiting, and many times requiring usage of a tripod and some ND to control exposure in bright sunlight. Still, even with these limitations, Nightshot was and is much more capable than the multi-second manual exposures of all the rest of the un-modded cameras.

If Nightshot were not crippled on the Cybershot Line, these models would have had most all the capabilities of a modded DSLR camera. In fact, many Cybershots have been modded to gain back the exposure controls, but at a substantial cost. Results of this mod have produced a very capable IR tool.

So I guess this leaves us with the questions???:

Will Sony offer Nightshot as a Real Feature again?

Will Nightshot continued to be Crippled?

Is the H9 REAL, or just a rumor to generate a vast amount of speculation?

I suppose we will all have to just wait and see.

-=- Jerry -=-

Update -- 20 Mar 2007

I found a link to a PDF of the Sony H7/H9 User's Manual.

Sony H7/H9 Manual

The H9 will have the Nightshot Feature which has been used so successfully by IR Shooters who own the earlier Sony DSC models that have Nightshot. This will be good news to those who do not want to step up to the DSLRs for various reasons, not the least of which is overall ownership costs.

In typical Sony User Manual fashion, what is not said in the manual is much greater than what is said.

The main question on our minds is whether or not the H9 Nightshot implementation is crippled (preventing any real exposure control) as it is in the DSC lines.

The PDF states "While using the Nightshot function, the camera will be in auto adjustment mode, wherever the mode dial is set, and settings available will be limited".

This statement sounds like the H9 will be limited to only certain Shutter Speed and Aperture settings, the details of which, so far, are still not known to the consumer.

Some people are reporting that they have "pre ordered" the H9, but I have seen no reports of anyone actually having one to work with. I suppose we will have to wait until someone takes delivery, or we can find one in a retail store to check it out directly.

Even "Crippled" the Sony DSC lines are formidable IR tools. I suspect strongly that the H9 will be adopted by a whole new group of IR shooters, and will continue the Nightshot IR tradition, producing stunning results.

Once again, we are left waiting for the details.

Stay tuned!

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

2007-02-24T09:54:00.000-06:00

The Eiffel Tower in IR

Image made in Las Vegas, NV. 2004

(Click on the image for a full size view. )

This Image was made with a Sony DSC-F717 in Nightshot, 1/60, F2, using Hoya R-72, and ND8 filters.

Please visit regularly to see more images from my large collection of IR work.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

2007-02-22T18:56:00.000-06:00

First IR Image Post.

This image was taken at the Texas State Fair Midway in Dallas, TX. in 2005.

(Click on the image for a full size view. )

This Image was made with a Sony DSC-F717 in Nightshot, 1/60, F2, using Hoya R-72, and ND8 filters.

Please visit regularly to see more images from my large collection of IR work.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

Links - Related to IR Photography - Visit Often!

2007-02-21T19:48:00.009-06:00

Refer links that you find useful and that you would like to see added to this list.

Send the the URL via comments to this post, or to my email address, listed below. Content on the web comes and goes, and sometimes moves. If you notice any link that does not work, please notify me for removal or correction.

My Personal Editorial Comment: Although a lot of good information about shooting Infrared Photography has been published on the Internet, and a lot of it is found in the following URLs, make sure that you do your own comprehensive review of the information available to you. In my own experience, much of the information out there on the world wide web is useful and accurate, some of it is only the opinion of the presenter, some of it is not necessarily wrong, but it is of little practical use, and only serves to muddy the waters, and finally, some of it is downright inaccurate. So what else is new? Not much, it turns out. One of the primary purposes for the existence of this site is to cut thru the mass of information available, and present relevant information in a simple and understandable manner. End of Comment.

Companies who will Mod your Camera for Infrared

Various Links with Information about Infrared

Jim-Kramer.com

Cavalier Photographic

Links with ideas about Post Processing

Infrared Group Forums

My email policy: Email me at infraredbuzz at gmail dot com. In order for me to keep valid email messages and dispense with spam you MUST include this "secret handshake" in the subject line. "scooter" (my cat's name). So for example: your subject line would look something like this "scooter hey Jerry I have IR info for you". If I don't see that word somewhere in the subject line, into the cosmic bit bucket goes the email, no exceptions (unless I happen to recognize your email addy). Thanks for your understanding. I expect a lot of unfamiliar email traffic.

Up Front Disclaimer: I do not have any connection to any person or business listed in any of the Links in this list. I do not receive anything of any monetary value or otherwise from the owners of any of the Links. It is quite possible that I may personally know persons involved with the Links, or I may have done personal business with them in the past. I purchase photography equipment and services just as you do. However, I will not recommend or in any way qualify the information or business practices of the owners of the Links. You, and you alone are completely responsible for making your own decisions in the use of information provided in these Links.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery

Welcome!

2007-02-20T20:28:00.000-06:00

I want to wish you a very heartfelt Welcome to the Infrared Photography Buzz!

As the header states, I intend to create the very best, and most comprehensive gathering site for everyone interested in Digital Infrared Photography.

We all find ourselves facinated by the ability to see and record light that our human eyes are unable to see unaided. Many have compared this type of Photography to an addiction. Close but not quite! At least not in the sense of a destructive addiction. But, we do find ourselves spending whole afternoons shooting photos, and not one of them in color when we get home. If you have done this more than once, you are hooked, and in a good way.

So here's what to expect on this site in the future.

Technical Information: If you are interested in getting started shooting IR, you have come to the right place. I will present a number of posts detailing how to get started, what equipment you will need, and what you need to do in the field to produce your IR images. I will break this information down to include all types of digital cameras. In most cases, you won't need to go out and spend a lot of money to join us in shooting your own IR images.

Useful Links: to other web sites with information about IR Photography will be presented and featured. It is very important to gather and distribute these various sources of information to backfill your knowledge and skills. Please send me your favorites in comments or email.

Images: It's important to look at other people's images to learn, first of all (especially in IR) what is possible, and to get ideas of your own about images that you would like to make in IR. Will you see some of my work? Well it is my site, and I'm proud of the IR work that I have done, so yes, you will get to see my stuff. But that's not the real purpose and intent that I have in mind. I want to see and feature your work too!

Many of my posts will present your work in my "Featured IR Photographer Showcase" format. I will curate applications to participate in these Showcase Posts. We will see the work of the most talented IR Photographers from around the World. Quality, you bet. Innovative and Creative Images, you better believe it! Excited?, I am! This is going to be SOOO good! More about how to apply and what will be required in a future post -- very soon! Look back here often. As a matter of fact, go ahead and set a Bookmark or Favorite to this site right now, so that you can visit often to see what is going on and what is new.

So, once more...... WELCOME. Visit often, leave comments, make suggestions, and apply to participate in the "Featured IR Photographer Showcase" .

Before we wrap this up, here's how you communicate with me and my audience.

Comments: Leave a comment. I will moderate comments, to keep things on track and clean/appropriate. Comments may be delayed and appear only on a daily basis, as I have the time to moderate and release them to the Blog.

My email policy: Email me at infraredbuzz at gmail dot com. In order for me to keep valid email messages and dispense with spam you MUST include this "secret handshake" in the subject line. "scooter" (my cat's name). So for example: your subject line would look something like this "scooter hey Jerry I have IR info for you". If I don't see that word somewhere in the subject line, into the cosmic bit bucket goes the email, no exceptions (unless I happen to recognize your email addy). Thanks for your understanding. I expect a lot of unfamiliar email traffic.

Let's get started! So much IR fun ahead.

-=- Jerry -=-

Check out My IR Gallery